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IMU 6DOF Razor - Ultra-Thin IMU
sku: SEN-09431
Replacement: SEN-10010. The new version of the board removes the high-pass filters which were creating some issues with the output. This page is for reference only.
Description: There's a lot of punch packed into this little IMU. The 6DOF Razor makes use of ST's LPR530AL (pitch and roll) and LY530ALH (yaw) gyros, as well as the popular ADXL335 triple-axis accelerometer, to give you six degrees of measurement on a single, flat board.
All analog outputs of the gyros (1x and 4x amplified) and accelerometer are broken out to the 0.1" pitch headers. The gyro outputs have a full scale of ±300°/s, while the outputs of the accelerometer have ±3g range.
There is no on-board regulation, so you'll need to provide a clean 3.3VDC power source, which will power all three sensors. All filtering capacitors and other components are included as shown on the pictures.
Having a hard time picking an IMU? Our Accelerometer, Gyro, and IMU Buying Guide might help!
Features:
- 2.7-3.6VDC power supply
- Low power consumption
-
Pitch, yaw, and roll gyro outputs
- 1x and 4x amplified (0.83 and 3.33 mV/°/s sensitivity, respectively)
- ±300°/s range
-
x-, y-, and z-axis accelerometer outputs
- 300mV/g sensitivity
- ±3g range
- All necessary filtering components
- Access to gyro's self-test, power-down, and high-pass filter reset pins
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When did the ST stuff come out? I was only aware of the Evensence flat gyros...
By the way, I am curious why the invensense gyros were not chosen for this board - the IDG-500 and ISZ-500 have better resolution than the ST gyros with the same 4X gain circuitry and the single z-axis sensor is cheaper than throwing away the Y=axis of the LY530 sensor.
While I'm on the subject of AD, they have complete 6 DOF (one with a compass, too) modules which are 10 x 10 x 10 mm -but also $350-450 in quantity. Still lower than alot of other integrated IMU's, but beyond the tinker's price range.
i figured that since this thing is perfect for building UAVs. And from the UAVs i've seen people build, people usually integrate the angle from the gyro, and then use the corresponding accelerometer to slowly eliminate the gyro drift. if you wanted to eliminate the drift from the X axis gyro, on this SparkFun board, you would use the acceleration data from the accelerometer labeled X.
so that's why i think it makes sense for SparkFun to label them this way. i think they may have thought of use cases like above, nobody bothers using these IMUs for absolute position sensing since it won't be accurate (double integration of accelerometer data while in rotation? good luck)
[...] aligned with the X axis gyro [...]
This is also my first point about this: You shouldn't have to qualify the direction you're talking about with which set of axes you're using.
[...] to eliminate the drift from the X axis gyro [...] data from the accelerometer labeled X. [...]
You need readings from both the X and Z (your sine and cosine) to get an absolute angle measurement. Otherwise you don't know which side you're on. (Remember that trigonometry?)
So, lining them up would be easier since you remember to correct a gyro axis with the other two axes.
And I was trying to make this comment constructive, not demeaning.
And I ran out of words for full arguments and special cases...
(1) First experimentation tells how axis are aligned and directed - then SMOP.
(2) As for deriving (well, in fact integrating) the absolute position, it all depends on (a) whether the sensors ever saturate, (b) if your application can zero the sensors accurately over a period of time and (c) how long your measurement lasts compared to the imprecision of the sensors.
Mine lasts for a few seconds - I am more concerned about accelerometer saturation at this point.
There are some complaints about this for RC models (read this on DIY drone forum and on a german RC forum).
The LY530AL datasheet give also 4,5 kHz.
No info for the 530.
Regarding noise, I have done some allan variance measurment, AD is first then ST and Invensense last.
What processor do you use it with?
I am considering a NXP LPC2148 or 2138 (depending on whether I want to go USB right away or just use a UART).
Has any one of you guys used them?
Thanks and best regards.
I just found your logomatic.
Too bad thmany pins of it are not driven even just to a via next to the chip!
Still, just give me time to make my mind and fetch my credit card...
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the accelerometers work, but the gyros are not working, still don't know why...
There is :) . See http://voidbot.net/razor-6dof.html
I just posted it in comments (obviously before seeing your question....). See it under Nov 5th date
Do i have to do a sequence at the start for the self test??
Does anyone have the same problem??
Thanks!
If so your readings are normal - the gyros measure an angular speed - you need to be currently rotating the IMU to see the gyros output change.
When you wrote the comment, all 6DOF had the HP filter that would hide the constant part of the output signal, i.e. for instance if you were rotating the 6DOF at a constant speed.
I wrote some simple code to connect Razor IMU with Arduino - basically to read raw data. Also I ported code for state estimation based on DCM algorithm ( same end goal as Kalman filter). You can find write-up and code at :
http://voidbot.net/razor-6dof.html
Hope this helps someone
i didnt test it yet, i am newbie for software based filters and analog sensors.
what will give these codes to me?
what kind of data? angle?
i need x-y-z angle for meausering angles between board and ground.
how can i use that codes for that?
thanks again
I just got mine and I'm wondering if I should remove them... any suggestions?
I have similar issue with the 6DOF IMU, but signal of Gyro x/y is not stable. After request at customer service, they suggest to check the signal by osci. As I don't have any osci right now and the ACC and yaw gyro are still working/stable, I assume that the 6DOF IMU is damaged somehow. Also the self test does not stabilize the signal to certain value. Maybe it's ESD issue. If anybody else has another idea, please let me know. Its just not so a cheap IC to replace it easily...
i have the problem that every axis on this board react fast if the motion starts but if the motion stops the value needs some time to turn back to zero.
a solution that works a bit is to set the HP filter - each time if i read the values - but than i got not the right angles.
if turn the sensor 90° i get 29° and even this value changes dependents on the delay of that i have inside the loop…
i got today also a idg500 Gyroboard ant this works more the fine!
so could this be a problem of this IMU board ?
here is the code:
gyro_z = getAdc(8);
float newTime = millis();
float savetime = newTime - oldtime;
oldtime = newTime;
// (currentGyroValue * Vdd / AdcRes - ZeroRateLevel) / Sensitivity(3)
gyroRad_z = ((gyro_z * 3300.00 / 4096.00 - 1230.00 ) / 3.33);
currentangle += gyroRad_z_0 + ((gyroRad_z) * ( savetime / 1000.00)) ;
digitalWrite(3,HIGH);
delay(20);
digitalWrite(3,LOW);
i got the same problem, too :(
every time motion stops, the gyro-values need up to 3sec to get back to zero
has anyone an idea, how to get rid of this problem? i can't believe, that the gyros on the board are so bad...
or can i use directly the bats?
It is always best to try to provide a regulated power supply to a board, especially one with sensors. But your case is difficult as going from 3.7V to 3.3V is hard. Linear regulators need some overhead (called dropout voltage) in order to produce the output voltage; our standard regulator has a dropout voltage of 1V so it takes 4.3V (or greater) to make 3.3V. So that won't work.
Switching converters have similar issues when the input and output voltages are close together (or even cross, for example while a battery is draining). There is a configuration called "boost/buck", where one converter raises your 3.7V to, say, 5V, and a second converter drops that to 3.3V. This works well, but can be inefficient: if each stage is 80% efficient, you'd only get 64% total efficiency.
Your simplest option may be to put a diode in series with your battery. One diode should drop the voltage around 0.7V, but different types of diodes have different characteristics so measure it to be sure it works. Be sure the diode can handle the current you'll be drawing through it (which shouldn't be a problem for the Razor). The output voltage will also fall as the battery voltage drops, so be aware of that when you're troubleshooting problems. Good luck!
There are two moves on this plot, first is 90 clockwise , then a pause, then 90 degrees back to the start point.
You can see after the first move there is a decay back to the rest position. Why? How do I get rid of that delay / decay? I'm using the device to measure angular position in 3 axes, (integrating deg/sec data) which is not looking good due to this false movement.
Any help would be great.
I am having the exact same problem with this IMU. The accelerometer outputs are rock solid, but the gyro outputs take quite some time to return to zero after movement stops. In Fact, the gyro output seems to over shoot zero and since I'm integrating the data and accumulateing it in a single variable, the initial move is canceled out.
I would appreciate any guidance anyone has to offer.
Until then, talk to techsupport@sparkfun.com about the issue.
I will contact tech support.
I also have a 6DOF that I have not powered up yet.
I would like to do the necessary mods before soldering it in place, but before I remove the high-pass filter I would like to know if you did pulse the high pass filter reset pin either on power up or after you measure a saturated output.
Thanks.