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Digital Oscilloscope DIY Kit
sku: KIT-09484
Description: This kit includes everything you need to build your very own, fully functional, digital oscilloscope. Once you've got it up and running, the oscilloscope features up to 5M samples/second, 8-bit resolution, up to 50Vpp max input voltage, and more!
This kit includes a semi-populated PCB, with all of the surface mount components already soldered on for you. The components left for you to solder are all through-hole. This is on the higher end of difficulty as far as through-hole kits go.
This kit pairs nicely with our BNC Probe Kit! A 9V power supply is required to run the oscilloscope; supply is not included.
Features:
- 9VDC power supply voltage
- <280mA current draw
- 5M samples/second (AUTO mode only)
- 8 bit resolution
- 256 sample memory depth
- 1MHz analog bandwidth
- 100mV/Div-5V/Div sensitivity
- 1MΩ impedance
- 50Vpeak-to-peak max input voltage
- DC/AC coupling
- Save and display up to 6 captures to memory
- Transfer screen capture to PC as a bitmap file (serial adapter not included)
- Backlit LCD display
Dimensions:
- 110x65x25mm
- Weight: 70g
Documents:
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Otherwise you will need to order a bnc connector to use the mentioned bnc probe. The board is set to allow for a board mounted bnc connector. I've built this one.
cool little scope.
Time for me to get soldering.
I'm not sure if they've fixed it in the newer revisions, but the front panel hole for the LCD is too small so you are going to have to route it out with a Dremel or other tool. Also, as soon as you get it, update the firmware to the latest version. The newer ones might be shipping with the latest firmware, but I know it made mine way better, it even upped the sample rate!
Joachim
http://groups.google.com/group/jye-tech-oscilloscopes
*However* it's probably not the most amazing diagnostic tool. I've never owned a real scope, but I was trying to use this to debug a remote reset circuit for an arduino, and found that attaching the probe to the reset pin of the arduino completely changed the behavior of the circuit. I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to happen. :-)
[disclaimer: It's possible I messed something up when building the scope kit or my circuit was exceptionally fragile or something.]
A: The parts list (not included in the kit) does not match the parts bag. The notes in the assembly instructions (also not included) don't line up with the board or parts bag.
B: The assembly instructions themselves are greatly lacking.
C: Useful notes if you're building this kit: Install the lone diode at position D3, and a jumper at D4. If you use the power jack, you do not have to install J3 (it's also used for applying power, but is not required). Bolting the VR and heatsink to the board may short the heatsink against a pass-through. Finally, you may want/need to trim the flange on the 3 button caps nearest the LCD, so they don't hang up against the LCD.
I was hoping to hack it for some other purpose but the source appears to be closed and I'm not going to bother writing from scratch. I'll be putting my time into coding for the nokia knockoff or an OLED instead.
It would be nice if some of the source could be opened up. Even if complete CRO code remained closed some of the drivers (LCD) etc could useful.
I have installed what was included and added the D4 jumper, but I don't even get a backlit LCD. Some of the voltages described in the troubleshooting guide are correct and some aren't.
Tesla: Thanks for the top about jumper@D4 which led me to realize that there may be other parts than what's in the kit.
Are there any other not-included parts that are needed? Specifically - my parts did not include any hardware for jumpers, are there any that are needed?
Thanks
---Raymond
P.S. it is a great little kit but it really needs to be better documented.
Step 5. "... short JP1 ...."
The instructions are a bit sparse though. Sorry you had an issue with that, it's easy to miss!
http://www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/Assembly%20Notes.pdf
If you have further issues, please contact tech support at techsupport at sparkfun dot com.
i installed the main board parts, did the 5v test, installed jumper, tested again. everything seemed ok. i attached the headers to the lcd module, inspected them carefully to make sure they were ok.
things were going smoothly until i discovered that the heat sink was blocking one of the 2 pin headers. i had decided to simply rotate the heat sink 180 degrees.
soldering lcd headers to the main board was rather daunting, as there were several smd components very close to some of the pads. but i managed to get around them. i power up. the screen lit but was blank.
after checking some of the terminals i found several incorrect voltages, but the troubleshooting guide didn't say how to correct them. after some tinkering i got the thing to display the version number, but this only happened once or twice.
i check connections and touch up the pads but i finally came to the conclusion that i had either just bricked $60 bucks, or i had been sold a $60 brick, ether way, it sucks.
I suggest to anyone reading this that they save their money and go for the somewhat similar assembled scope. That way you will get something you can use. For me this was a time consuming, frustrating and ultimately unsuccessful project.
And if you are wondering, I HAVE successfully put together many kits. This one has a poor design and incredibly poor directions.
Not at all up to the usual quality of SparkFun! Avoid this kit, read the other reviews!
We are very sorry for the frustration related to this kit. We are working on obtaining a new set of directions to assist with building this kit. We have successfully built one of these kits here at Sparkfun, however, it is not one of our products. We are working on this problem, and hope to come to a solution shortly. Please contact tech support if you are experiencing issues.
Thanks,
Timothy
This was my first serious SMD project and it definitely required some effort and patience. I found a couple places where I put placed something in backwards or put a capacitor in where a resistor should go, but managed to catch all of that before actually powering it on.
Oh, I have the RCA connector on my kit.