As one of the students who helped out on the original Living Wall, it’s awesome to see someone else trying this out. Thanks for writing about it!
I don’t think we were ever able to find a good way to insulate separate layers of conductive paint. Instead, we just designed the circuit so that the traces didn’t have to cross on the wall. For example, you could have alternating stripes of power and ground, and connect them each to the power supply at the top or bottom of the wall.
Also, to increase stickiness (especially for microcontroller modules, where transient interruptions will cause a reset), we’ve sometimes attached magnets or screws to the surface to provide something for the magnetic components to stick to.
For the second version of the living wall (the one pictured on the page you linked to), we used a plastic coated steel “paper” as the base for the wall, since it’s easier for magnets to stick to than the magnetic paint.
Good luck getting it all finished!
I found (with my own variation on this board), that I had to add zener diodes to clamp the D+ and D- lines to 3.3V for the mouse to be recognized (on some PCs). I believe the USB specification calls for 3.3V.
Is anyone else having trouble with newer versions of this module? I just received some labelled A333350 / 1007DSG as opposed to the older P270361 / 0850S G and they don’t seem to behave the same. In particular, using the sample code on this page, they always report a status of 0 (i.e. never initialize / calibrate). Any ideas?
This cable is great for use with microcontrollers, but it doesn’t work with digital cameras. I’ve tried it with two still cameras and a video camera, and none of them appeared on the computer.
News - My Love/Hate Relationship… | about 10 months ago
As one of the students who helped out on the original Living Wall, it’s awesome to see someone else trying this out. Thanks for writing about it!
I don’t think we were ever able to find a good way to insulate separate layers of conductive paint. Instead, we just designed the circuit so that the traces didn’t have to cross on the wall. For example, you could have alternating stripes of power and ground, and connect them each to the power supply at the top or bottom of the wall.
Also, to increase stickiness (especially for microcontroller modules, where transient interruptions will cause a reset), we’ve sometimes attached magnets or screws to the surface to provide something for the magnetic components to stick to.
For the second version of the living wall (the one pictured on the page you linked to), we used a plastic coated steel “paper” as the base for the wall, since it’s easier for magnets to stick to than the magnetic paint.
Good luck getting it all finished!
Product DEV-09026 | last year
I uploaded the updated schematics and Eagle files: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoEthernetShield.
Product DEV-09026 | about a year ago
BTW, Arduino now includes an SD card library that works with the Ethernet shield: http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SD
Product WIG-10026 | about a year ago
I found (with my own variation on this board), that I had to add zener diodes to clamp the D+ and D- lines to 3.3V for the mouse to be recognized (on some PCs). I believe the USB specification calls for 3.3V.
Product DEV-09950 | about 2 years ago
Aww, we’re not product #666 any more.
Product DEV-09949 | about 2 years ago
BTW, the name is “Arduino Mega 2560” not “Arduino Uno Mega”. Can you update that?
Product WRL-08770 | about 2 years ago
I got the newer modules to work by changing the value of register two (R2) from 0xF4B9 to 0xD0B9.
Product COM-09203 | about 2 years ago
The example code doesn’t seem to match the pins used in board. I had to make a few changes to get it to work. Corrected version here: http://forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=22710
Product WRL-08770 | about 2 years ago
Is anyone else having trouble with newer versions of this module? I just received some labelled A333350 / 1007DSG as opposed to the older P270361 / 0850S G and they don’t seem to behave the same. In particular, using the sample code on this page, they always report a status of 0 (i.e. never initialize / calibrate). Any ideas?
Product CAB-09355 | about 3 years ago
This cable is great for use with microcontrollers, but it doesn’t work with digital cameras. I’ve tried it with two still cameras and a video camera, and none of them appeared on the computer.