KHartley
Member Since: September 28, 2009
Country: United States
-
update: I'm not sure if I got a defect one or what but I've managed to get mine working again. I used a pair of scissors to cut right down to the blue line, almost to where the two sensor traces intersect. I then put a piece of eletrical tape on one side to prevent the V+ from jumping to GND.
Success! -
I figured this out also. Except I had read your comment first and had a 1k but was looking to get as close to zero on the read when its floating. Mine kept steadily slowly rolled away from 300 to approx 100-150. So put in a 100 ohm. The problem occurred when my finger crossed over the blue divider line there are two burn marks on either side of it now. I tried plugging it back it but it started heating up again. Apparently this isn't enough to stop it from frying. Lesson learned.
-
Just finished building the amp about an hour ago. Sounds great. I bought some in wall speakers from monoprice and they sound awesome. Very loud. I'm using an acer laptop power supply.
-
Any chance of making one about the same size as that softpot? I'll probably make one by scratch in the next few weeks. I want to use the softpot as a volume control but I want it to light up to show the level.
-
You'll most likely throw off the gain from the preamp. Not saying it couldn't work, It just might not sound as well as you want it to. I didn't actually work out any equations so I don't know where the operating range changes to. You're on the right track. You might just want to add a separate pre-stage for mixing down two sources. Just connnect the output of this to the input of the amplifier kit.
Something like this. -> http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/6282-opamp-adder.gif
Not sure how much you know about op amps but this may help. -> http://www.facstaff.bucknell.edu/mastascu/elessonshtml/OpAmps/OpAmp3.html
I tried designing a mixer in college for a lab project. I soldered everything and ended up frying several op amps because I didn't look for extra traces. Lesson learned. -
If you look at the STA540 poweramp datasheet they show a way to implement a mute function. On page 20 section 6.10. You could add it if you wanted too. But maybe in the next revision it will get added.
-
Could you update the photos? I know in the description it says that it now has a micro-sd card slot but these show no storage at all.
Just a thought. -
For those having problems try this. With the pins at the top pin 1 is next to the edge. I'm using an Arduino ATMega 328 mini pro.
using the example Hello World arduino sketch.
PIN1 = tie to gnd
2 = tie to 5v
3 = resistor ~2-3K to gnd
4 = rs = tie to pin 12 on arduino
5 = r/w = tie to gnd
6 = enable = tie to pin 11 on arduino
7-10 = open (no connections)
11 = tie to pin 5 on arduino
12 = tie to pin 4 on arduino
13 = tie to pin 3 on arduino
14 = tie to pin 2 on arduino
15 = tie to 4.2 V (5V is working for me right now)
16 = tie to gnd
using this with an arduino will work -
Ordered mine a week ago and finally got around to playing with it. I used the included LiquidCrystal.h for Arduino to run this thing. Very easy to use once you get it up and running. To get the contrast working I used a 3.3Kohm resistor going to ground, looks amazing. Not quite as bright as picture but I think I'm close. 2.2Kohm is too washed out and 6.8 Kohm nothing shows up. I can't believe how much easier this is compared to the 68HC12. Uhhh, I'm going to have nightmares for the rest of my life.
-
I had trouble with this for a little bit so I'm posting it if others want to know.
The S0-S3 act as an address so if you're measuring multiple inputs coming from the C0-C15 side you set S0-S3 to that binary pin # and read it on the SIG pin. I had assumed that a 1 on say C8 would generate a 1000 on the S lines. In this instance you have to set S to 1000 and then the value reads in on SIG.
Just for anyones info if they were having problems like I was. I didn't quite understand that from the data sheet.
No public wish lists :(