SparkFun Electronics Commentsurn:uuid:214d0e4e-f1b1-d287-ce26-ac5b4c9f82492024-03-29T09:41:55-06:00SparkFun ElectronicsM-Short on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyM-Shorturn:uuid:2226b7d4-afa4-da04-85d6-8ba997b90e3b2016-10-24T09:24:13-06:00<p>I'm not sure off hand the power requirements, but we do use this board the the ProtoSnap LilyTwinkle which runs from a coin cell battery so you should be fine.</p>
Customer #520185 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyCustomer #520185urn:uuid:ffbb32bf-0eb1-235f-0411-710ae2f104802016-10-22T05:54:41-06:00<p>How many volts does it works with? Is it enough 3V from a button cell battery?</p>
Customer #794770 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyCustomer #794770urn:uuid:caa60a8c-20bb-5505-2bfe-d393239924db2016-04-08T14:29:47-06:00<p>Would it be possible to run all 4 leds off of just the "breathing" pattern pin? I'd like to have 4 breathing pattern lights, but I'm super new at this and don't know how to reprogram all of them to be that pattern.</p>
SFUptownMaker on DEV-10899 - LilyTinySFUptownMakerurn:uuid:80734bdb-7cd2-ac07-84bf-9da7211bcffb2015-01-05T08:45:11-07:00<p>Not possible, though I doubt you'd hurt anything.<p>There's no bootloader on the part as it ships. You could probably put a bootloader onto it, but that's an exercise we've not undertaken.</p></p>
Chris Torrence on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyChris Torrenceurn:uuid:9f716bdb-a86e-9048-fc7a-a6a06e2595782014-12-30T17:15:57-07:00<p>Is it possible to use an FTDI Basic breakout board to reprogram the LilyTiny? I've been trying to match up the pins from the FTDI to the LilyTiny. So far I have:<ul>
<li><p>5V to Lily +</p></li>
<li><p>GND to Lily -</p></li>
<li><p>CTS to Lily hole #2 (pin 7 SCK)</p></li>
<li><p>TXD to Lily hole #0 (pin 5 MOSI)</p></li>
<li><p>RXI to Lily hole #1 (pin 6 MISO)</p></li>
<li><p>DTR to Lily pin 1 RESET</p></li>
</ul><p>I'm just a bit nervous about trying it out, in case I'm missing something. Any thoughts?</p></p>
Timanderson0104 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyTimanderson0104urn:uuid:7302e8cb-1c3b-21fa-66b4-7b468d6492502014-03-20T17:32:35-06:00<p>I want to run 3 of these off the same power supply with 4 LEDs on each. Which would you suggest, the Lilypad coin cell holder or the Lilypad power supply.</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyKamiquasiurn:uuid:1c523c60-4bf6-4a1b-fe6c-69ee922980cb2013-06-28T14:07:08-06:00<p>Just adding to this, SparkFun now have a <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11591" rel="nofollow">ISP Pogo Adapter</a> which is practically a implementation of the 'jury rig something that you can press onto the pads' bit, and in fact uses pogopins :)</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyKamiquasiurn:uuid:6172a812-853a-698b-010b-614a48da57632013-06-28T14:04:59-06:00<p>Just adding to this, SparkFun now have a <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11591" rel="nofollow">ISP Pogo Adapter</a> which is practically perfect for the task.</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyKamiquasiurn:uuid:6d9438bb-c895-749a-d996-6fe0ff7c617d2013-05-31T05:17:46-06:00<p>I don't see why not - you'll just have to wire the ISP header on the <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11460" rel="nofollow">TinyAVR</a> to the ISP header on the bottom of this board.<br>
For the TinyAVR that's as easy as populating it with some <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/116" rel="nofollow">headers - male</a> or <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/115" rel="nofollow">headers - female</a>, for this board that's not so easy (can't easily solder something down, especially if you want to keep this e-textile friendly) and you may have to jury rig something that you can press onto the pads or press the pads onto (like a <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/138" rel="nofollow">pogopin bed</a>, not cheap or super-easy, but once assembled can be re-used for any boards with the 3x2 header layout), or maybe give <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10527" rel="nofollow">https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10527</a> a shot.<br>
Others have just angled standard header pins into board pads, but that's not the most secure of connections :)</p>
Customer #442519 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyCustomer #442519urn:uuid:56d054d0-c29f-8d4f-c228-a9f3f4c5acf52013-05-30T20:29:54-06:00<p>Will this work with the Tiny AVR Programmer? https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11460</p>
eilatann on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyeilatannurn:uuid:6bf2e764-b251-e4ff-8418-ab9d82ad95542013-03-04T22:46:48-07:00<p>Are there any plans to make one of these with all 5 IO pins broken out? That would be super awesome!</p>
madsci1016 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinymadsci1016urn:uuid:1f1a10bf-99e3-6108-454b-045a46552e362013-02-13T16:22:25-07:00<p>If you are handy with AVR studio and a programmer, you can control up to 12 individual LEDs with this by charlieplexing. I wrote code to show you: https://github.com/madsci1016/LilyCharlieTwinkle<p>Basic animation is just an expanded twinkle pattern across all 12 LEDs. You can use Vixen to easily create your own effect or even custom animations.</p><p>Bill</p></p>
mellis on DEV-10899 - LilyTinymellisurn:uuid:091b9709-e27f-2724-d99b-accf717e1e3d2013-02-01T12:06:01-07:00<p>Standard male header pins can be used to pre-program the board even though they don't actually fit in the holes. Put the long sides of the pins into the female connector on the ISP and press the short sides of the pins against the holes. It's a bit tricky to hold them in place for the duration of the programming, but possible.</p>
mbustosorg on DEV-10899 - LilyTinymbustosorgurn:uuid:a05a8f38-1fd9-4c12-3f5a-80bf4178f18f2012-12-23T10:21:10-07:00<p>I was able to reprogram using a TinyISP. The trick, suggested by my 9 year old, son was to flip the 6 pin connector on the ISP so that you reverse the output pinout. We burned a bootloader and then blink uploaded no problem. The suggestion from above to press a header into the pins worked great! You have to have the Twinkle powered up and not have the 5V jumper in place.</p>
Customer #389577 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyCustomer #389577urn:uuid:a8522e85-6e04-dbc5-cb1a-67d618a271192012-12-14T10:40:02-07:00<p>Hello, would it be possible to run 10 LED's from the LilyTiny do you know? thanks</p>
relaxing on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyrelaxingurn:uuid:5ba36589-d9c5-63a5-5205-13bfd9dfb29d2012-11-19T18:12:43-07:00<p>That's an expensive way to make an LED matrix. $17.20 for 20 5050 RGB LEDs vs $34.95 for the addressable 20 LED string?</p>
Customer #37591 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyCustomer #37591urn:uuid:5d4df7a2-a575-67c0-b82a-5dbbe88fe3cf2012-11-16T14:13:23-07:00<p>If that's an ATtiny85, the BlinkM Arduino fork should work just fine with it:<p>http://blog.thingm.com/2011/03/blinkm-smart-led-as-the-smallest-arduino/</p></p>
Airith on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyAirithurn:uuid:399a5199-020c-a781-362f-ac49b5b2a48b2012-10-28T15:05:30-06:00<p>The holes on the back of the LilyT* don't work with SF's male pin headers or jumper wires. I was wondering if some of your pogo pins might work but I couldn't find the dimensions. In the interim here's is my <a href="https://forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=33880" rel="nofollow">shoddy tutorial</a> using thinner wire (I know yours will be much better :)</p>
SFUptownMaker on DEV-10899 - LilyTinySFUptownMakerurn:uuid:a7f97778-3378-0f67-0d96-d2ba1bf1e6a82012-10-28T07:50:54-06:00<p>When I designed it I had hoped that would work, but I quickly realized that the RESET line on the Uno header isn't an I/O pin (normally), so that shot down that idea.<p>If you buy some snappable male pins (PRT-00116) and some male-to-female jumper wire (PRT-09140), you can mate it to an Uno pretty easily.</p><p>I'm still working on the "Programming the Twinkle" tutorial (I promise!), and I've just ordered protos on a pogo jig to make programming this easier.</p></p>
Airith on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyAirithurn:uuid:5c7c41de-3597-54f8-3e04-6822125bfd1b2012-10-28T00:30:06-06:00<p>I was going to try placing a LilyT*'s pads onto the pins of the ICSP header on my Uno, but it's not compatible. The left and right sides have been flipped. Does anyone know where I can find headers that will fit into the LilyT*'s ICSP pins? I'm trying to use it with a breadboard.</p>
Bluebie on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyBluebieurn:uuid:0a4d5b21-77bd-15c1-4a77-c3d8b23120482012-10-09T16:52:53-06:00<p>That's an expensive way to make an LED matrix. Better to use LED strings and just have one LilyTiny to drive the whole string (you'll probably need a better battery though - like a lipo battery - sparkfun has some and it wont harm the LilyTiny to power it with a lithium ion cell or lithium polymer battery.</p>
Bluebie on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyBluebieurn:uuid:f128753d-dec7-0199-902f-5e22d96c8ff52012-10-09T16:50:44-06:00<p>Yep! The USI related pins are all broken out, so you can drive LED strings by bitbanging in software or via the USI hardware for a little more performance. You'll need an extra power supply though - a button battery is barely enough power to run a one single colour LED.</p>
trentonw on DEV-10899 - LilyTinytrentonwurn:uuid:c0140836-12f7-54bc-330d-b7d582723dff2012-10-07T01:43:35-06:00<p>could this possibly be used to drive a string of LPD8806s given some reprogramming?</p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyKamiquasiurn:uuid:87a9d530-7392-df22-5b2f-b6ac45f096be2012-10-05T04:31:24-06:00<p>SFE themselves probably have a pogopin jig, but you can probably temporarily solder some headers to the pads. After that it's a matter of plugging in an ISP/ICSP based programmer such as SFE's Pocket AVR programmer or Adafruit's USBtinyISP. I'm not sure if the 'reset disable' fuse has been set, however - if it it, you'd need something that can reset the fuses as well.<p>It would be cool if SFE can put up a little tutorial on reprogramming these, I agree :)</p></p>
Gino B. on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyGino B.urn:uuid:7f9eceee-48ed-e0b2-1f4d-6e5bc16dbef72012-10-04T20:43:39-06:00<p>What gear? I've been looking all around for tutorials around reprogramming these little things. What is the best thing to hook to the 6 pin header?</p>
tz on DEV-10899 - LilyTinytzurn:uuid:5ac0c4c2-f31e-f1b6-611e-c899819d049b2012-10-03T17:30:48-06:00<p>The ATtiny85 is underrated. Lots of power in a small package. With the RAM and Flash you can do a lot. I've also done a full I2C host - easy with the USI but I don't know if all the pins are broken out.<p>I only use the 4313 more often because of the 16 bit ICP (also on the '84), but mainly the UART. A 4313 to bluetooth would have lots of possibilities.</p></p>
Kamiquasi on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyKamiquasiurn:uuid:db4b7df3-8165-a833-1625-154740229cb92012-09-29T21:14:14-06:00<p>Only in the default programming. The LilyTwinkle does the 'firefly' pattern on all 4 outputs, this one has separate patterns for each of the 4 outputs. The boards and components are all the same. It just saves on having to reprogram them yourself :)
( Reprogramming them is easy, if you've got the gear - the board is even laid out with that in mind. )</p>
David38 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyDavid38urn:uuid:326aa539-f223-e266-c2af-2acc50c362792012-09-29T19:55:10-06:00<p>Is this different in any way from the LilyTwinkle?</p>
Gino B. on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyGino B.urn:uuid:dc595526-d53e-2cd6-afb3-3097868805092012-09-21T16:10:08-06:00<p>Any update on "hacking the tiny" tutorial? Would be nice to se a vid of someone reprogramming the Lilypad Tiny.</p>
SFUptownMaker on DEV-10899 - LilyTinySFUptownMakerurn:uuid:b7b73237-62f5-df50-32f7-73423d2731232012-09-17T14:14:12-06:00<p>Also, if you look at the standard six-pin programming header that most AVR compatible programmers mate to, you'll note that this is the same as they use, so you can reprogram this with no soldering by putting male pins into the connector on the end of the cable from the programmer and pressing the pins down onto the pads.</p>
Customer #320989 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyCustomer #320989urn:uuid:436261d5-2a12-9bcd-4a9f-964e8d336a5f2012-09-13T16:03:52-06:00<p>Wish there was room to have squeezed in PB4 in this design... with charlieplexing and reprogramming the tiny85, one could have a very small, wearable 5x4 led matrix run from a 3V cell battery... Maybe not the brightest display but functional nevertheless. Maybe the next revision? ;-)<p>could be done with a hack... maybe that's the fun!</p></p>
aaronbear on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyaaronbearurn:uuid:a38c7a78-e69a-2217-f887-d540f90a79b12012-08-30T10:47:28-06:00<p>I hope you guys can get around to this soon, this product has a lot of cool possibilities if it can be reprogrammed easily!</p>
xilef on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyxilefurn:uuid:b697b6a0-56a5-ccb8-6402-d14e4935ad662012-08-06T17:36:43-06:00<p>Got the answer from the SF tech support, if someone is looking for the same thing:<p>Looking from the back side (digital pin 3 should be on top from front side):</p><p>Left side--------- Right side</p><p>MISO----VCC</p><p>SCK-----MOSI</p><p>Reset----GND</p></p>
xilef on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyxilefurn:uuid:b1476b4b-cd58-a303-9722-f690959b0ab02012-08-01T09:14:53-06:00<p>About the ICSP connectors: they do not seem to be identified. How do we know what to connect where on the Arduino for ICSP programming?</p>
SFUptownMaker on DEV-10899 - LilyTinySFUptownMakerurn:uuid:3aca8a1e-e1f3-6e8e-6b23-03950db6b1d12012-07-16T19:09:23-06:00<p>There will be a "hacking the tiny" tutorial eventually. The back of the board has six pads in the middle which are pinned out for the six-pin ICSP header common to most AVR processors; in my experience it's possible to program using just a DIL header pushed into the connector on the end of an ICSP programmer.<p>The code will be made available soon, too.</p></p>
Nadav Ami on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyNadav Amiurn:uuid:1770214d-4d0c-f40e-cb0c-dbab4c79c6fb2012-07-14T18:57:59-06:00<p>yep there is, but youll need an Arduino board to program it. Check out this link for more info. http://hlt.media.mit.edu/?p=1229</p>
Customer #325898 on DEV-10899 - LilyTinyCustomer #325898urn:uuid:8cba27d4-0e86-5543-e41e-b06b0e8acde52012-07-14T10:32:41-06:00<p>Is the Arduino code available for the LilyTiny? I'd like to be able to reprogram how the LEDs flash.</p>