The LulzBot Mini is an easy-to-use, small form factor 3D printer that is more than capable of producing almost any object you can think up. Though tiny, this 3D printer is mighty! The LulzBot Mini provides you with the same wide range of features of the Taz 4 and facilitates the consistent, higher quality prints that you know and expect. The LulzBot Mini features a self-balancing 152mm x 152mm x 158mm (6in x 6in x 6.2in) print area with a controllable heat bed that can print small to medium sized items.
What can you print with? LulzBot users have many filaments options beyond common plastics like PLA, ABS, and HIPS. Exotic filament options like wood and bronze/copper filled filament materials can also be used with this 3D printer!
All LulzBot products are Libre/Open Source Hardware, meaning you can adopt the latest and greatest technology being developed across the 3D printing market. From experimental filament materials and the modeling software of your choice, to new accessories like hot ends and print surfaces—experience the joy of user freedom! LulzBot’s Libre/Open philosophy empowers you to download/print upgrades and replacement parts for your 3D printer, and make whatever modifications you want!
Note: The LulzBot Mini does NOT include filament beyond the 1 meter HIPS sample.
Whether it's for assembling a kit, hacking an enclosure, or creating your own parts; the DIY skill is all about knowing how to use tools and the techniques associated with them.
Skill Level: Rookie - Basic hand tools are required and instructions will allow more freedom. You may need to make your own decisions on design. If sewing is required, it will be free-form.
See all skill levels
If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Competent - The toolchain for programming is a bit more complex and will examples may not be explicitly provided for you. You will be required to have a fundamental knowledge of programming and be required to provide your own code. You may need to modify existing libraries or code to work with your specific hardware. Sensor and hardware interfaces will be SPI or I2C.
See all skill levels
If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
See all skill levels
Based on 7 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
The Lulzbot mini is working great. Its a well built machine and the Cura software is good. I just got Octoprint working on a rPi which works well too. So far I have printed a couple of things from thingverse and 2 friends have printed custom parts. My friends have experience with other printers and they said this one is way better. Next I need to learn a 3D cad so I can make my own designs. standby. I’ve been using ABS.
3 of 3 found this helpful:
Very easy to operate with amazing results. Until now, I only had one problem that could be a headache for some people. (and write bad review) The internal filament drive gear got packed with PLA filament resulting by no flow at nozzle. I just had to clean the gear with a small tool from the supplied tool kit. Other little observation, the glass bed looses its flatness on certain area. I will pay special attention to see if the situation worsens with time. Unfortunately Ninjaflex extrusion tool head is not available at this time.I can’t wait to own one because in fact, the first objects I wanted to fabricate was with flexible plastic.I hope the product will be available soon. I am in a learning process and I really appreciate the open source environment. The price seems excessive, but for a complete environment software/hardware that works after unpacking, it is worthwhile. En résumé, si j'avais à refaire ce choix, je le referais sans hésitation.
1 of 1 found this helpful:
I had over 6000 hours of print time on my Maker Farm Pursa Iv"8, when I decided to purchase something more “consumer grade”. I was sick of continually leveling the bed, spraying with hairspray, and adjusting belts to get better tolerances.
Being an engineer I’m all about research. If your anything like me you have probably narrowed your next 3d printer purchase down to two or three printers. I was debating between the Makergear M2, Flashforge creator Pro, and the Lulzbot mini.
Since consumer grade 3d printing is such a new market, you will also probably find there are not alot of people out there who have tested and compared all of the available options. That being said, choosing a printer can be a bit of a gamble.
I also cannot tell you that the Lulzbot Mini is any better than the other consumer grade 3d printers, because I have not used all of the printers. However, I can tell you that I have been printing every day for the past month with my lulzbot mini, and it is truly amazing!
Right out of the box I plugged the printer into the wall and my computer. I opened up cura, and cleanly printed the Roctopus. That was all there was to it. The thing just works! The prints look amazing. The tolerances are outstanding. I haven’t failed a tourture test yet.
The auto bed leveling has worked flawlessly for me. I make sure to always watch it run through the sequence, just in case it were to not detect one of the corner discs, as others have mentioned. It has always worked correctly though.
I did have some problems with ABS, Ngen, and Hips not sticking when I used individually packaged alcohol pads to clean the PEI print bed. This problem completely went away when I switched to a bottle of alcohol 91%, and cotton swabs. I believe the pads were not able to saturate the surface well enough, but with the bottle you can use more alcohol.
In regards to the 6x6x6 print bed. Some people feel it may be too small. I find that a print around 6x6x6 in size takes about 13 hours. For me, I really wouldn’t want to print something that took much longer anyways. So I personally don’t find the print bed size to be a neusance.
The one con I do have, is that the printer has to be tethered to a computer. For me it was not the end of the world, because I have a desktop in my office that never leaves my office. However, I could see it being annoying (and impossible) if you wanted to use your laptop in one room and run the printer from it in another. I am aware that the printer can be run from a raspberry pi, and this would free up the laptop. However, I feel for the price of the printer, it would have been nice to have this capability from the factory. Once again, it wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me by any means, but would just be nice to have.
Oh other things. I have been using the cura Lulzbot edition slicer with the default profiles, and it has been great. I thought with all my previous printing experience, I would be using advanced mode, but there has been no need to what so ever. Like I said before, the thing just works!
Also, kudos to sparkfun for the excellent shipping. Product that arrived on time and all in one piece. Thanks guys.
2 of 3 found this helpful:
Bought this few months ago. It printed perfectly out of the box with the included test short HIPS filament. I switched to several other materials since then and it has printed great every time with zero mechanical issues, failed prints, or clogs. I bought from here because I know they helped design the auto-leveling bed, which works great. I am looking forward to future lulzbot printers, as I’m eager to have dual extrusion combined with autoleveling.
Running black ABS to get started. In the first couple weeks I’ve made many parts (mostly engineering fixtures). No failures thus far. Density at 20% (default) and 25% result in light, stiff and plenty strong parts. Horizontal holes are very good: round, pretty close to size, excellent for tapping. Same with vertical holes as you’d expect. Great for frames and fixtures: very functional components and assemblies. Surface finish is what you’d expect - they’re FDM after all. May get a little warping in the horizontal (table) plane. For small parts it’s a good idea to run the skirt (Cura option) as that seems to result in better quality. Removal is tricky for large flat parts. Once you learn to design parts to the process this is a very useful tool. The cura ap is easy to use as well. Very happy with this purchase.