The TB6612FNG motor driver can control up to two DC motors at a constant current of 1.2A (3.2A peak). Two input signals (IN1 and IN2) can be used to control the motor in one of four function modes - CW, CCW, short-brake, and stop. The two motor outputs (A and B) can be separately controlled, the speed of each motor is controlled via a PWM input signal with a frequency up to 100kHz. The STBY pin should be pulled high to take the motor out of standby mode.
Logic supply voltage (VCC) can be in the range of 2.7-5.5VDC, while the motor supply (VM) is limited to a maximum voltage of 15VDC. The output current is rated up to 1.2A per channel (or up to 3.2A for a short, single pulse).
Board comes with all components installed as shown. Decoupling capacitors are included on both supply lines. All pins of the TB6612FNG are broken out to two 0.1" pitch headers; the pins are arranged such that input pins are on one side and output pins are on the other.
Note: If you are looking for the SparkFun Motor Driver with headers, it can be found here or in the Recommended Products below.
This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.
Skill Level: Noob - Some basic soldering is required, but it is limited to a just a few pins, basic through-hole soldering, and couple (if any) polarized components. A basic soldering iron is all you should need.
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This skill concerns mechanical and robotics knowledge. You may need to know how mechanical parts interact, how motors work, or how to use motor drivers and controllers.
Skill Level: Rookie - You will be required to know some basics about motors, basic motor drivers and how simple robotic motion can be accomplished.
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If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Rookie - You will need a better fundamental understand of what code is, and how it works. You will be using beginner-level software and development tools like Arduino. You will be dealing directly with code, but numerous examples and libraries are available. Sensors or shields will communicate with serial or TTL.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Based on 18 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Since all of our students have iPads, we use the Light Blue Bean Arduino compatible microcontroller in our Physical computing class. This means that we need a motor driver that operates at a 3v logical voltage to get a signal from the bean.
This chip seemed to be the best fit for us.
I do wish there was a way to get the chip in a style that could be easily put into a breadboard without having to solder headers on.
Seems like the price could be a little lower.
Also, the standby pin is not necessary for our needs, but in order for the chip to work, you have to wire Standby to 3v, adding a little bit of complexity for novice students.
Ideally, what I would like is a version of the L293D chip that will operate at 3v logic, but this will meet our needs for now.
2 of 2 found this helpful:
I used the TB6612FNG motor driver as part of a 24 motor life test stand. The motors are switching direction every 100ms causing a current spike of > 2 amps. The test has been running continuously for a week with out any issues. Each of the TB6612FNG motor drivers worked right out of the box saving me a lot of time.
5 of 5 found this helpful:
I’ve owned two of these motor drivers. I’ve used them to drive a self-balancing robot and the rover 5 chassis. I’ve never ran into any problems with it. For the rover 5, I keep each treads' two motors in sync by simply hooking them up together from one motor output. Perhaps this limits the bot’s speed, but it’s good enough for me.
I’ve controlled the driver with an assortment of microcontrollers: Arduino Uno, Arduino Mega 2560, bare atmega328, bare attiny84. I’ve also powered the driver with rechargable AAs, regular AAs, and a 7.4V Li-Poly battery (sold here @ sparkfun). All of which work as expected.
Works just as expected.
I was doing a little DYI RC car and I needed something to control the motors with. The motors were salvaged from something else and way underpowered but the driver did exactly what it was advertised to do. I’ll be getting some better motors and trying again soon. The only thing that was a little tricky was soldering the headers on since it was so small, but that’s more my inexperience than anything.
so nice to not have to worry about flyback diodes, smart control bits are great, worked like a charm and these are things that fall in the category of “should have one in my bin all the time”
This is a very easy to use motor driver. Using the bildr.org tutorial linked from the product page, it took me only minutes to get two motors running off of it using Python on a Raspberry Pi 2.
The built-in 200K resistors make this just plain fun to use. No need to worry about hooking it up directly to your micro controller pins. However, I did notice one thing that seemed weird to me.
I used the same power source for both the motor and the logic side and I used a function generator to supply the PWM. When I switched off the power supply the motor kept turning very slowly and I realized that the PWM supply was running it. I checked it out and when the power supply was on the current running through the PWM line was 0.02mA. When I switched off the power supply the current jumped to 9.0mA.
I’m using this and an Arduino Pro Mini to control the drive motors of a Hexbug “Battle Spider”. Using the linked bildr tutorial it was easy to get everything wired up.
One problem with the bildr tutorial though: their provided move and stop functions don’t reset the PWM outputs. I was running a motor test to discover which direction the motors ran. After running motor A both ways and stopping I couldn’t run motor B without A running as well.
All that is needed is to analogWrite 0 to both PWM pins in the stop function.
This guy does exactly as advertised, with a tiny form factor. It gives me great control over my robot, and fits inside the chassis to protect itself from harm. Thanks, Sparkfun!
They designed this super great. The layout of the pins works wonderfully, as compared to a cheap Chinese board that I got off the Internets somewhere a while back. So much easier to wire up and makes the wiring shorter and all around better for my lockitron setup! For short, love it!
Just as I expect from SparkFun, this handy little breakout works great and is easy to use.
This is a fine breakout and works as advertised. I am trying to drive two motors which drive the treads of a toy tank. These motors draw 1.2 amps at full stall, or maybe even slightly more, so they are right at the edge of what this driver can support. I became interested in this chip because I have a Pololu Qik that I tested with my tank and it did really well. The Qik has an identical TB6612 chip but also incorporates a serial chip and some other features. So I bought this breakout and also a breakout from Adafruit. Neither this breakout or the Adafruit one performed very well with my high-draw motors.
Anyway, not really a complaint, as I am really pushing the limits of this chip, but it really makes me wonder what makes the Pololu version function so much better. Trace layout, IC footprint, thermal relief? I would be delighted if an EE weighed-in on the differences.
I wrote up some of my findings on my blog: https://manisarobot.blogspot.com/2018/01/more-about-motor-controllers.html