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SparkFun OpenSegment Shield - Green (20mm)

We love 7-segment displays and we know you do too, so we have made the easiest (arguably) to use medium for you to get up and running and use! This green OpenSegment Shield was specifically designed to run on top of most Arduino Uno compatible boards, all you need to do is attach headers to the shield and snap it in, no bread boards required. The OpenSegment Shield still combines a classic 4-digit 7-segment display and an ATMega328 microcontroller allowing you to control every segment individually using only a few serial lines.

Just like our other 7-segment boards, the OpenSegment Shield can be controlled in one of three ways: Serial TTL communication, SPI serial communication or I2C serial. This shield is very similar to our other OpenSegment Displays, the biggest benefit to this board is its ease of use thanks to the Arduino Uno form factor.

  • 4 digit white alpha-numeric display with Serial Comm, SPI or I2C Serial Interface
  • Display numbers, many letters, and a few special characters
  • Individual control of decimal points
  • Selectable baud rate
  • Selectable brightness
  • Baud rate and brightness values retained in non-volatile memory
  • Individual segment control for each digit
  • Arduino Uno Form Factor

SparkFun OpenSegment Shield - Green (20mm) Product Help and Resources

Core Skill: Soldering

This skill defines how difficult the soldering is on a particular product. It might be a couple simple solder joints, or require special reflow tools.

1 Soldering

Skill Level: Noob - Some basic soldering is required, but it is limited to a just a few pins, basic through-hole soldering, and couple (if any) polarized components. A basic soldering iron is all you should need.
See all skill levels

Core Skill: Programming

If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.

2 Programming

Skill Level: Rookie - You will need a better fundamental understand of what code is, and how it works. You will be using beginner-level software and development tools like Arduino. You will be dealing directly with code, but numerous examples and libraries are available. Sensors or shields will communicate with serial or TTL.
See all skill levels

Core Skill: Electrical Prototyping

If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.

2 Electrical Prototyping

Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
See all skill levels

Comments

Looking for answers to technical questions?

We welcome your comments and suggestions below. However, if you are looking for solutions to technical questions please see our Technical Assistance page.

  • Member #539793 / about 9 years ago / 1

    Spent a good chunk of time, trying to get the baud rate on this to change while using UART. I've used the command to write to it, and then the baud rate. Like this:

    Serial.write(0x7F); // set baud Serial.write(0x06); // to 57600

    For the LIFE of me, i can not get this little guy to change baud rates... Maybe im doing something wrong? Also on the hookup guide, its kind of misleading with the pictures, because for SPI and I2C the labeling doesn't match up with this board. Where am i supposed to plug in for those other two protocols? maybe i wouldnt even have to worry about changing the baud rate, so i can use the other device.

  • xsk8rat / about 10 years ago * / 1

    Great product that works great and looks great doing it. However, the Also Purchased Arduino Stackable Header Kit may not be exactly what you want. If you don't want to stack anything on top of the display (which would obscure your view), you may want the Header - 40-pin Male (Long Centered, PTH, 0.1"). Place these from the bottom of the board to get the same pin length and clearance of any obstructions on the left of the board. That might be a little cheaper and allow the option for flush mounting of the display.

    I realized this only after dutifully ordering and soldering in the stackable header. :^)

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