Retired Product

This product has been retired from our catalog and is no longer for sale. This page is made available for those looking for datasheets and the simply curious.

Creative Commons images are CC BY-NC-SA 3.0

Description: The Lockitron is an innovative home security device from Apigy that allows you to lock and unlock the deadbolt on your front door from your smart phone. This specific part is the mechanical assembly that makes up the majority of the device without the electronic guts inside. This means that you get to decide and add your own unique wireless and motor control options! With a few turns of a screwdriver, the Lockitron easily fits over the deadbolt lock on the inside of your door.

The Lockitron Mechanical Assembly includes the mechanisms to physically turn a lock, the motor, the housing, and the means to secure it all to your deadbolt. As stated before, you will need to supply your own electronics as well as four AA sized batteries for the assembly and electronic components to operate.

Note: Be aware that the Lockitron may not fit all doors. Please consult the Door Compatibility link in the Documents section below for a handy cut out “fitting” example to make sure your door is compatible with the Lockitron.

Note: We’ve included the installation links in the Documents section below to show you how to physically install your Lockitron. There are also instructions on how to hook up your smart phone but those may not (and more than likely won’t) apply as this product is only the mechanical assembly.

Documents:

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Customer Comments

  • Does this assembly come with the gear train?

  • Get a piece of crowdfunding history, maybe even before many Apigy backers.

  • This kind of thing, while cool, makes me a little nervous from a home security standpoint. Does this basically just give an additional point of entry to your home if someone manages to get hold of your phone (or whatever wireless-capable device can access it, depending on user implementation)? Maybe include some tips on maximizing security in a future hookup guide or something.

    • This is generally true for any security device. If someone steals your keys, won’t they have access to your home, car, etc.? To make it more secure, you would want to use multiple factors of authentication. For example, have a phone app that requires a password. Then, you would need to have your phone and knowledge of the password (this is known as two-factor authentication). I recommend starting down the rabbit hole of physical security if you want to learn more ways to make things secure.

    • Honestly, for this sort of security you just need to raise the bar high enough that someone can’t create an “Easy button hack” to sell on ebay for the real common criminals. For that to happen, the lock needs to be more wide spread and stable than a Sparkfun hack. All of this is pointless anyway if they use the “brick” method (brick meet glass) to get past your amazing lock.

      On the other end of the spectum, I doubt there are many elite-cyber-hacking criminals that also want to risk breaking into a common person’s house. I also doubt they will scrutinize a small Sparkfun hack that has very low proliferation.

      The whole point of this post is that the risk is low (IMHO, grain of salt included) because there are WAAAY easier targets or better payoff. Just don’t have a flaw that leaves your house unlocked while you’re gone. I will now completely digress and say that attention to security details for the sake of knowledge is a VERY worthy pursuit. Hack away fellow Sparkfunions!

    • Implementation is key. If you used Wifi for the access, then you already have 1 factor authentication as long as it is secure. If you want to allow access outside of the Wifi, change the ports used by the IoT device, use SSL, and setup your application and router to support port knocking. Put a password on your phone or don’t cache the password to your locking device. If you want to protect against brute forcing the password, then consider increasing the delay between failed password entries by some increasing scale. Consider having a dual radio for Wifi and Bluetooth. Wifi only passwords have a single use (think remote open for a family member, etc). Dual routed wifi and bluetooth password (behind the scene in the app) is the required for normal use.

    • I think you’re missing the point of IoT and diy: if you want it your way, you should make it your way - create a video if you want. They aren’t sending with electronics for a reason, however the majority of tinkerers would use it exactly as showcased. But isn’t the idea to do what you want?

      • My point was that I’m not sure what would be a secure implementation and what wouldn’t. Yes, I can (and will) just read up on it on my own, but some links or suggestions on improving security would be a neat bonus for a security-minded product like this.

  • Is anyone else having issues with unlocking? It keeps getting jammed when trying to unlock my door like it doesn’t have enough torque :/

  • So being an original backer of the crowdfunding campaign and having never received my original device or my refund, is there any way I can get a discount when purchasing this item? You know, because I funded it’s development… Quite annoying to pay $150 with nothing to show and then see it for sale somewhere else.

  • There are 12 pin on Lockitron but your code only read 4 pins. Can you provide the wiring schema of your current project?

  • Hi Sparkfun, might you be able to publish the schematic and code from the video example?

  • Cute gizmo. Now that I read up on it. Though you may want to offer some technical specs - Having watched Shawns video and the lockitron vids i will make some educated guesses: 6VDC motor, but what current draw?. Looks like 4 limit switches, 2 for motor cam position, 2 for lock handle position, but what contact form factor on the switches? :)

    • When we tore apart the motor housing, the motor had no markings. With some testing, it looked like the motor operated between 3 - 9 VDC and would draw 500 mA (moving the rings) and 3+ A stalled. The full guide here.

  • Hmm… I’ve had problems remembering to lock the deadbolt on the front door, either before going to bed or before leaving through the garage. Since I also have someone come in to check on kitty when I’m away, this could be set up to do logging (not using the motor at all!) of the lock position. I had toyed with the idea of some sort of detection of when the bolt was in the striker, but that seemed like too much hassle.

    Also, I watched the Lockitron promo video, and noted that there was a plethora of other similar devices with YouTube videos mentioned after the Lockitron video finished.

  • How does this mount? Does it need to be screwed into the door? My apartment complex is pretty strict about no damage but I love this idea

    • Each Lockitron comes with a “C-Plate.” There are instructions on how to install the assembly in the Installation guides in the Documents section (check page 5 in the written guide, for instance). There some unscrewing that will need to take place so keep that in mind. :)

  • is there a possibility to change the limit switch location, in case i have a lock that rotates for longer?

    • Not really. The switched are held in place by tiny standoffs. You could drill new holes or supply your own switches. There are more “ridges” or “bumps” than what’s really needed, so it’s possible that it’s already set up for locks with longer rotations.

  • Cool device and I would buy one if there was some room to fit the electronics inside the device. Maybe there should be a version 2 with that feature?

    • You can sort of shim some electronics in between the battery compartment and the side with the wireless symbol. That’s where the original one had the electronics. You’d likely have to roll a custom board to make it fit, though.

      • Do you happen to have dimensions for the original board or dimensions of the open area so we can roll a custom board?

        • I have the original board, and it looks like it is 2.4 inches (if you include the Electric Imp antenna) x 1.255 inches. The board is 0.58 inches deep (if you include the large capacitors on the backside).

          Image 1 Image 2 Image 3

  • This writeup and video are confusing!! The text says that you’ll need to provide your own electronics, but the installation video clearly shows that the electronics are included and that they sync seamlessly with a smart phone (App?). I am saying this because I do not see any link to the electronics (buying) options. I mean the sort like what is shown in the installation video.

    • The original Lockitrons came with electronics (an Electric Imp and a Bluetooth module on a custom PCB), which is what the installation video is for. You can buy the Lockitrons from SparkFun if you want to roll your own electronics (i.e. it is just the housing and motor). If you want the complete solution (with electronics), you’ll have to buy them from Lockitron.

  • Comment edited.. I misread. This is just the mechanical assembly, which is awesome. Thanks Sparkfun for making this available.. I really just wanted to hack the device anyway.

  • while cool this device is pointless. there is a electrical striker already invented for this purpose without the need for batteries. just connect a microprocessor and rfid reader

    • An electric striker involves cutting a bigger hole in your door frame, which you can’t really do with a soldering iron, a computer or a pair of wire cutters. If you’re more electronically inclined than mechanically inclined (either in terms of the tools you have or your skills) this would be a good way to build your own “smart” lock.

    • Please provide electrical striker details.

      • I think he’s talking about one of the electrical security strikers for professional security and automation. They require a lot more effort to install. By comparison the one above is for hobbiests, you attach and can remove it with ease. Moreover to have an electric striker that also contains a key and bolt turner, your looking at 150+.

        I’m not sure he understands that most SparkFun users are diy on the weekend learners. And not likely to run 100feet of electrical cable through the walls and into a door.

  • Cool and all, but why wouldn’t you leave enough room in the case for the electronics you need to operate the thing?

    • They kinda did. Watch the “Installation Video” and you can see their electronics (not included in this version) placed vertically on the right side. It’s up to use to design your own custom PCB to fit in this space if you don’t want the electronics outside.

  • what exactly is in this? does it come with all the wires sticking out the side and what do they do?

Customer Reviews

2.7 out of 5

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2 of 2 found this helpful:

Very large, may not fit your door!

The construction is very solid and built to last. It took me a little bit of time to understand the design and the correct way of driving it: the motor in the “neutral” position should allow for turning the knob manually to lock and unlock the door, and when you want to lock it - the motor needs to turn all the way in one direction (until a switch is triggered), then reverse and get back in the “neutral” position.

What surprised me, though, is how large the assembly is. It simply did not fit my apartment door - so I gave it away to a friend but it did not fit his door either! Make sure there is enough clearance around the knob on your door - the lock dimensions are about 105 x 180 mm, with the knob roughly in the center. It’s about 35 mm thick, and the handle sticks out to about 50 mm total.

Unfortunately I have no use for this otherwise great device, as it simply doesn’t fit my door.

Hi, Sorry this didn’t fit your door. Thanks for the informative review.


3 of 5 found this helpful:

Knew what I was getting, expected more documentation about it

Sparkfun should have put some work in before releasing this, not just copy pasting documentation from a company that is not supporting this product. I was aware this is just the mechanical assembly without the electronics. This is fine- I’ve got a lot of arduinos and know components that I have experience in decently well. When I took off the faceplate, I saw two wires that come from the battery cage and two that go into the components that make the lock turn. I want to make this very clear - when you order this, there is absolutely no documentation that comes with it. It comes with some protective plastic around it, but no box or anything.

Anyway, the battery cage’s mystery - what kind of power does it give - is a simple problem that involves a multimeter, but I can’t get a good reading from it. There’s four little switches inside but only two appear to do something. The second pair of wires go into something that will make the lock turn. What kind of power do I need? I’m not familiar with this type of thing - how do I make it work? I guess I figured it would be a servo - I know how to control those, but it’s a motor which I guess requires a separate controller board?

The installation guide and video, as many have said, is for the full product, not what you get here. I’m not expecting something from Lockitron, since I feel like Sparkfun is getting some sort of surplus from them on the base of product they’re no longer selling. There’s a video where a very chipper engineer brags about what he did, but I need more details and documentation. I expected Sparkfun to provide how to interface this with an arduino right from the time of release. Especially since this is not super cheap and it looks like someone’s already figured it out enough to make the sparkfun video. If you’ve dealt with this type of stuff before, you won’t have problems, but if you’re like me and aren’t used to the components used, you’re not going to find much help.

Hi, A tutorial is in the works and should be available on this product page once released. Thanks


Not so great

There are no instructions and I can’t figure out how to even use it.

Did you look at the hook up guide that is linked in the description? - https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/lockitron-hardware-hookup-guide?_ga=1.248634631.1851504437.1417041706


Feels solid

It is quite large, so make sure to test with the door compatibility template. A Teensy 2.0, TB6612FNG (ROB-09457), and small protoboard can fit into the battery compartment if you are going to power it externally. I am planning to use it with Leosac , an open source physical access control system, to allow access to my local Hackerspace/Makerspace.


0 of 4 found this helpful:

Loved this NOT AT ALL

Design makes it feel impossible to open without destroying the casing. Did not fit my door lock in the orientation needed. Fit horizontally but how would I close the door without smashing the damn thing against the door frame every time. Video shows external control circuit… So you mean I have to glue an ugly open circuit to my door in order to make this functional? On the plus side: it now makes a wonderful paperweight.


Nice Product!

Does anyone have a working demo besides what is offered? Or has anyone been any luck using the given demo? I’m trying to figure out if it’s my wiring or the code!

It’s stuck on unlock 1A:1 1B:0 2A:1 2B:1

Shoot our Tech Support team an email. We may be able to help you with this.