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Retired RETIRED

This product has been retired from our catalog and is no longer for sale.

This page is made available for those looking for datasheets and the simply curious. Please refer to the description to see if a replacement part is available.

Replacement: BOB-10179. We now carry this in the even brighter "general purpose white". This page is for reference only.

Description: This is a breakout board for the very high-intensity Cool White Luxeon Rebel LED. The board is designed to dissipate damaging heat away from the LED to the back of the board. There are three pads for each the anode and the cathode of the LED.

This breakout board comes with the LED installed as shown.

Note: We found these in inventory and they work fine but we're no longer making them. We'll be selling them at a discount for a limited time but when they're gone, they're gone!

Documents:

Comments 8 comments

  • If your good:
    You could make a suit of these things and use it for a personal defence system. If somebody tries to mug you just turn all the lights on, blinding the assailant, and make your getaway. There would never be a dark alley with you around.
    If your evil:
    Make a suit of these things and call yourself “The Suntan”. Then walk into a place turn them all on, blinding everybody, then get what you want and walk out. You could even have catch phrases like, “Time to light this party up.” (Spoken like Arnold Swarchenegger)

    • Nobody else thinks that these may be some of the best ideas ever? At least the evil one!?
      Bummer…

  • Anyone looking for a DIY method for driving one of these little guys should check out this… http://www.instructables.com/id/Circuits-for-using-High-Power-LED-s/

  • Just in case you don’t want to load the PDF, this bad boy produces:
    90 lumens @ 350mA
    160 lumens @ 700mA

  • This class of high power LEDs is usually sold on an aluminum PCB in order to dissipate the heat properly.. On an aluminum PCB the LED can be operated at 350mA “safely”. By this I mean the LED will be fine, but you won’t want to touch the aluminum with bare skin.
    If one desires to run the LED at full power (700mA), the aluminum PCB would need to be mounted to an appropriate heat sink.
    I would be weary of this much power dissipation on standard PCB materials.

  • Anybody use one of these? Did you buy a driver or make one?
    If you made one would be be just hold the voltage at 3.15 volts and then current limit to max of 750 uA (or so) via PWM?
    So parts would be MCU, current sense resistor, op amp, & MOSFET?

  • there are 5 different part numbers with the “cool white” label, which one is this?


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