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scharkalvin

Member Since: January 6, 2010

Country: United States

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Hey Anime and Manga fans, Join me on www.astroboy-online.com

  • Your repair looks good! One thing I hope doesn’t bite you, the DC voltage now available on the lamp power rails will be a bit higher than the RMS AC voltage was because of the filter caps charging up to the PP voltage. While you will get a 1.2 volt drop across the bridge rectifier, that will be more than made up for by the lower voltage drop in the transformer windings due to the lower current of the LED bulbs. Bottom line is that those ‘fuse’ based bulbs could see a bit more voltage than they were designed for depending on the design voltage output of that transformer winding. At least those are easy to replace. As for the soldered in LED’s, I found that it’s a bad idea to run LED’s anywhere near their max rated current, especially if they came from China. My experience with that was a VERY short life time as the LED’s got dim within a few weeks of operation (this was in an outdoor lighting application where the LED’s ran about 6-8 hours a night, every night). Cutting the current in half made a huge difference in the aging rate of the LED’s. I hope you sized the series resistors accordingly.

  • I went to the product page for the new IMU, and the link to the schematic pdf is dead.

  • I’ve managed to solder 0.5 mm QFTP parts with an iron. I actually use one of those thin tips, and I’ve never had them bend or break, in fact I’ve never even needed to replace them in years. Granted, I’m using a Weller, not a Chinese designed soldering station. I usually try to NOT make solder bridges, but I have no problems removing them with solder wick. A good magnifier is critical, especially for us older guys. I have a pair of close up glasses that my father used to use, their lenses look like coke bottle bottoms and they have a working distance of under a foot. I can see pimples on a fly with those!

    A hot air station is on my want list, and there is Chinese one available on ebay for about $35 that got good reviews on the EEV Blog. I’ve seen videos showing soldering with paste and hot air that make it look easy. We’ll see about that.

  • I wonder if the RPi Zero would work with this camera? A wifi dongle could be added (as the Pi0 doesn’t have wifi). The combo might fit inside of some of the ‘pinhole’ camera bodies I’ve found on thingiverse, and be 3D printed.

  • I’m confused. According to the schematic the ONLY thing the 3/5 volt jumper changes is the level converter output for the reset/DTR signal. The tx, rx, cts, and other signals remain at 3.3 volts. Why?

  • This reminds of the prize raffle at some ham radio ham fests I’ve been too. Some well to do dude wins a brand new transceiver, and a luck less guy like me wins a 1 ohm 100w resistor. I KNOW which “prize” I’ll probably get (if anything at all), the stupid spool of conductive thread (which for me will be as useless as that 1 ohm 100w resistor).

  • If you include the cost of the RP, then this “laptop” would cost me more than what I paid for my used Thinkpad T400. If the PiTop were a bit more friendly as a RP development setup, then maybe it would be worth the price, but if the keyboard is as bad as reported it’s a fail out of the gate.

    It DOES look like a well thought out bit of kit though, I can see why Sparkfun is carrying it, I just don’t see you having it in stock very long.

  • Too bad the Pi-Top doesn’t have a built in Li-Ion battery. Then it could be a true portable laptop.

  • BdBdBdBdBD….I’m freezing my ball bearings off!

  • Robbie the robot from “Forbidden Planet” (he appeared in a ton of other places including the Addams Family), Huey, Dewey, and Louie from “silent running”, Hymie the robot from ‘Get Smart’, Bender from ‘Futurama’ and of course the one that sticks the most in my psyche is the one depicted in my avatar, Astro Boy aka Tetsuwan Atomu.

No public wish lists :(