guruflorida

Member Since: January 6, 2010

Country: United States

  • Product CEL-10138 | last year

    I found this module to be one of the easiest to setup and get working, I used the breakout board, but not the eval board. 1. I used a bench power supply with 2x 330uF caps plus 1x 47uF caps all in parallel and on the module side (so as to provide low impedance power to the module). 2. Tied DSR0 to GND. 3. Wired an FT232 breakout module into GND, RX0 and TX0. 4. Used the AT&T SIM card from my iphone. It’s a micro-sim but I lined it up and it still worked. 4. Wired a switch from ONKEY to GND (basically a power enable) 5. Connected Putty to COMx with 115200 8N1, No flow control (otherwise default putty settings) Followed the samples in the Software Development Guide and I was calling phones and sending text messages. Note: The manuals always put 09 in front of the numbers (both voice and text) but this must be a non-NA thing. Here in the US simply use an AT command something like: (refer to SW Dev Guide for full example.) ATD5558675309;
    AT+CMGS=“5558675309”

  • Product CEL-10138 | last year

    I found this module to be one of the easiest to setup and get working, I used the breakout board, but not the eval board. 1. I used a bench power supply with 2x 330uF caps plus 1x 47uF caps all in parallel and on the module side (so as to provide low impedance power to the module). 2. Tied DSR0 to GND. 3. Wired an FT232 breakout module into GND, RX0 and TX0. 4. Used the AT&T SIM card from my iphone. It’s a micro-sim but I lined it up and it still worked. 4. Wired a switch from ONKEY to GND (basically a power enable) 5. Connected Putty to COMx with 115200 8N1, No flow control (otherwise default putty settings) Followed the samples in the Software Development Guide and I was calling phones and sending text messages. Note: The manuals always put 09 in front of the numbers (both voice and text) but this must be a non-NA thing. Here in the US simply use an AT command something like: (refer to SW Dev Guide for full example.) ATD5558675309;
    AT+CMGS=“5558675309”

  • Product LCD-08600 | about 4 years ago

    Hi Aeris,
    contact me at nospam2 at colinmackenzie.net . I notice from your pic that you have the same red PCB as I. We can help each other get this LCD going.

  • Product LCD-08600 | about 4 years ago

    Does It look like half the dots are missing? You can just make out the image but the pixels are messed up? I had this. Strangly, it worked later when I was not attaching to the Atmel with the debugger. I was also connecting and disconnecting only the VBatt pin while the LCD and atmel was otherwise operating. For some reason, recycling power on the Vbatt pin was changing the pixel modes. (Inducing noise on the serial lines probably.) I had to disconnect Vbatt often because the boost power inductor gets too hot after 30 secs.

  • Product LCD-08600 | about 4 years ago

    I think you need to adjust contract. I had this prob too. Whatever source code you use, there will be a line about setting the volume. Set this to 45 or so. The blue will go away.

  • Product LCD-08600 | about 4 years ago

    I have my LCD working. Except the power boost inductor gets as hot as the sun. I’ve tried it at 3.3v, 3.6v and 5v. It got so hot the little blue inductor package is now black instead of blue! And you can’t read the 221 anymore. I havent ran it for 5mins straight yet, that cant be right.
    I have the red PCB version, just bought it. Anyone else having this kind of heat problem?

  • Product LCD-00569 | about 4 years ago

    One more thing. I have also noticed the boost converter for the LED is hot!! It seems the switcher circuit is not tuned right, or the inductor is under-rated. The LED drive does take a lot of current, It overheats a 3.3v regulator very quickly too, so it may be just an under-rated inductor. I tried both 3.3v and 5v for VBatt with the same scorching results.
    SparkFun: any suggestions about this scorching inductor?

  • Product LCD-00569 | about 4 years ago

    I have a Red PCB and Green sticker tab and a GE hologram. For those with the common blue screen you may just need to adjust your contrast. 45 worked for me.
    However, the graphics are still garbled, I can just read some text in the demo so it’s close. I can see it only erases 2/3 of the screen. I believe the controller wants “2 in 3” mode (2 pixels in 3 bytes) and the code is outputting in 1:1 byte:pixel mode.
    Anyone else in the same boat as me?
    This appears to be an epson as the code that almost worked is for epson controller.
    I’ll probably get it working after I dig into the driver some more…too tired now. :)

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