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Member #110363

Member Since: January 7, 2010

Country: United States

  • Hey Toni_K I’ve updated my comment above. Left the picture in there in case for some freak reason someone runs into this same problem. Sorry my original review was a little harsh, I was just really annoyed after spending a long time trying to figure out the problem only to find out it was the FTDI. Obviously this is not a normal situation and I thank you guys for being on top of things. I’ve never had anything but amazing experiences with Sparkfun and the customer service so major props to you and the whole team. Definitely got a happy customer here. The maker community is quite lucky to have such an amazing resource and a dedicated team of passionate people looking out for us. Peace and love!

  • I ran into this exact same problem and solved the issue using the Monostable Multivibrator suggestion provided by SFUptownMaker below. Don’t let the fancy terminology fool you, all this thing does is turn any button press, no matter how long the person holds it down, into a single short pulse so that the Audio Module never gets stuck in a loop.

    The version I implemented is a “Non-Retrigerable Monostable Multivibrator” with a transistor to convert the positive pulse output of the 555 timer to a negative pulse, which the Audio Module will respond too. It’s super easy to set up on a breadboard even if you have no clue how the electrical components work. Just piece them together and it should work. Although DISCLAIMER I make no guarantee that this will work the same for you as it did for me due to tolerances of the various components and variations in quality of components of similar type. But worth a try considering it costs less than $5 for all the components either on Sparkfun or at RadioShack (recommended).

    CIRCUIT BUILD PICTURES AND SCHEMATICS: If you want to do the same thing I did, here’s what it looks like: http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~turner/storage/pics/MonostableMultivibrator/CircuitDiagram_MonostableMultivibrator.jpg

    Here’s the schematic and short explanation: https://ccrma.stanford.edu/~turner/storage/pics/MonostableMultivibrator/MonoStableMultivibratorCircuit.jpeg

    LIST OF PARTS YOU WILL NEED: 1) RadioShack 555CN (aka Texas Instruments EN555) - I tried the TLC555 and it didn’t work with these resistor and capacitor values so if you want to get the Sparkfun approved 555 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9273 I would make sure they send you the NE555 which they have the datasheet posted for and not the TLC555, which they have in the picture, even though in the comments they claim that it’s the same thing, it is NOT in my experience the same.

    2) NPN Transistor RadioShack ones look like this: https://ccrma.stanford.edu/~turner/storage/pics/MonostableMultivibrator/NPN-Transistors-front.jpeg https://ccrma.stanford.edu/~turner/storage/pics/MonostableMultivibrator/NPN-Transistors-back.jpeg

    3) LED (just a run of the mill 5mm LED) https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9590

    4) 4.7 μF Capacitor The one I used was an Axial Lead Electrolytic Capacitor. A radial lead Electrolytic would work too. Just make sure to have it set in the board with the proper polarity

    5) 0.01 μF Capacitor The one I used was a Film capacitor but you could probably use a Ceramic disk one

    6) Resistors 3 resistors with 220 Ω - 2 in series to make a 440 Ω resistor and one other 2 resistors with 10k Ω 1 resistor with 1k Ω

    EXTRAS I also used the Sparkfun Breadboard Power Supply to provide the necessary 5V and 3.3V required for all the components, which you can find here: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8376

    But that requires some soldering so if you don’t know how to do that then sorry!

    Also to note, there are some extra wires in the above picture of my circuit for controlling relays, which I used in my own project, but just disregard those. the schematic shows you the necessary parts of the circuit to fix your long button press woes. The system does require a slight amount more power to operate, but it’s pretty negligible. You could probably replace the LED with a wire and test it to see if it still works. Taking the LED out of the circuit may save some energy.

  • Having problems with your RedBoard not being recognized by a Macbook Pro running Mavericks? Here are some tips.

    Also, in my experience Sparkfun has the greatest customer service ever. So if you have a problem definitely let them know. They will help you out.

    MY STORY: I was having some serious issues with my computer not recognizing the Redboard as a Serial Device. I spent a whole day troubleshooting it and no luck. Then I looked very closely at the FTDI chip and noticed half the pins were not connected

    Here’s a picture: https://ccrma.stanford.edu/~turner/storage/pics/RedboardIssues/FTDI-BadSoldering-1-Zoomed.jpeg

    Thankfully Sparkfun has world class customer service, and after I wrote a relatively scathing review (i had spent a day troubleshooting it and was pretty annoyed) they hooked me up with a replacement. Much respect for that.

    I feel it’s worth noting the things I learned in my attempt to troubleshoot the issues of the board not being recognized. In case you have a similar issue here are some tips.

    1) When you first plug in the RedBoard, be sure to make sure SOMETHING at least shows up in “System Information” under the “USB” section. If nothing shows up make sure to inspect the FTDI chip on the RedBoard or try a different USB cable. My issue was probably a very rare one, but best to check that first and not waste time.

    2) If you see something showing up in “System Information” but the Arduino IDE isn’t recognizing it and you have Mavericks, you may need to look around the internet for a few more hacks on getting it up and running

  • Just so you all know, the LED in the picture above is oriented incorrectly. Make sure you check out the wikipedia article and scroll down about half way to see how LED’s are oriented with regards to a printed circuit board. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_circuit

No public wish lists :(