Member #116365

Member Since: January 21, 2010

Country: United States

  • I found another problem on this board. this time it is with the Arduino footprint. The two mounting holes on either side of the ICSP header is out of alignment. And approximately 2.9mm too wide. Not a big deal for most, but if you’re mounting it to avoid vibration like I am, it becomes a big deal. especially since these are the only two usable screw holes on the board.

    The third mounting hole is so close to the headers that it is almost impossible to use. but this is an issue that plagues Arduino as well.

    It is the two mounting holes on either side of the ICSP header that concerns me at this point.

  • Please read my post again. I did not mention anything about the “Arduino” pin layout. I was referring to the way you placed the additional pins on this board. Specifically the DAC pins. This is a 4 pin arrangement that is .05" out of alignment with the rest of the standard pins. the other header pins that you placed on this board are also slightly out of alignment. But not enough to be concerned with. But it does show a lack of attention to detail. something that has shown up on some of your boards. Some of which has prevented me from purchasing a particular board.

    in my case, I know of a couple products that I have chosen not to purchase because of lack of attention to detail. And in at least one case, I believe the Person was half drunk when he designed it. How it got past design review is a different Question. I am just going by the comments left for that board, I believe several others have chosen not to purchase it as well.

    I’m not sure if you still have the beer keg available to your employees, but maybe it’s time to get rid of it, or at least limit access to it till after business hours. your reputation is at stake here, which is a big part of your company. you can have a reputation for designing and producing good products or products that have not been thoroughly thought out. Or even dangerous, Which is a whole separate issue.

    Again I have no problem with the Arduino board layout. It is what it is. It is your pin placement that I have a problem with.

  • I purchases board to use with the project that needed DAC. I need to amplify this voltage to 10 V, so I needed a proto-shield to accommodate a op amp. I have several generic proto-shields that have a .1 standard pin spacing. While trying to determine where my headers should be placed, I noticed the pin spacing for the DAC output did not line up at all. It was .05 off. I also noticed that other header pins that needed to be attached to a proto-shield was slightly off. This can make it difficult to use a standard proto-shield with your boards. Certain pins will be slightly out of alignment, even with the extension headers. The board is still usable, but I expected a standard pin arrangement for all pins. I suggest you use the standards header pin spacing on all your shields/adapters.

  • You forgot to add that they’re stackable. You can stack two or three together and get a larger bargraph. Old technology from the 80s or so. Popular electronics even had an article for a digital Spectrum analyzer using these..

  • What you did was dangerous. No fuse, Not hooking up to the switch side of the ignition And paralleling the heating pads, Is definitely dangerous. As others have said, The use of a fuse is absolutely Essential.. Also as others have said, it should be hooked to the ignition side of the switch, So if something does happen it will happen when someone is around. Not when it’s setting in your garage in the middle of the night when everyone is asleep. There should be a junction point under the dashboard to connect power to your device. Paralleling the heating pads is also a bad idea. It is one thing to run these pads on 13.5V+ on the bench. They have open-air to displace the heat. Putting them in a seat insulates them. The heat builds up quicker and could catch the foam padding on fire. A related example is when they used to use Knob and tube wiring In houses. 14gauge would carry a 20 amp circuit. When they started Insulating the wires there was no place for the heat to go so they had to increase the Size of the wire to 12gauge in order to keep them from overheating and catching the house on fire. Also you should not use solid core wired in Any automotive application. Vibration can cause the wires to break and short out. And the movement of the seat can cause it to break as well. Also do not twist the wires. Lay them as flat as possible and keep them from rubbing against each other when you sit down. When running it through the seat do not stretch the wires. Route them In a curve type pattern so they can move when you sit down. I have been doing this type of work since the 70s and if you were working in my shop you would be fired for doing that kind of work. There have been several incidents involving cars catching fire in garages and burning down the house and maybe killing the occupants. Keep your family safe and disconnect this garbage and do it correctly.

  • Interesting, how about adding conductive paint to it.

  • Caption: the owl with a Red Hat says, hoooo did that, hoooo just farted.

  • In the mid-70s, I was working as an automotive technician. Knowing that times was changing in the automotive industry. And that electronics and computers was going to be a big part of that change, I started studying computers and electronics. Most of my revelations was small and pretty insignificant. The most memorable was not a Revelation that I had, But one that I gave An engineer. At the time I was installing air-conditioning systems and they had just started using electronic thermostats. At first everything worked good, then we got a batch that would not cool. The thermostats was kicking off the compressor way too early. After trying every little trick that normally worked in failing I finally called the engineering department. From the tone of his voice you could tell he had a major problem, it seems they had learned about the problem and was having to design a whole new thermostat to fix it. He said I would just have to wait and it would take about a month to fix. I said is therenothing I can do to get this going. He said nothing, you will just have to wait. I said how about putting a resistor in line with the potentiometer or the temperature sensor. It got deathly quiet for several seconds I said will that work. He said in an excited voice yes yes. I said then you authorize the modification. He said yes do it. I promptly went down to RadioShack and purchased a potentiometer because I did not want to calculate the resistance value needed for the unknown circuit and several packs of resistors, Hooked up the potentiometer and match the resistance needed, measured it, and install the appropriate resistor. The next shipment we got had a resistor installed. I’m sure that the Modification saved the company millions of dollars in lost revenue and possibly lawsuits. That’s when I figured out, engineers are taught to think in a complicated manner. Sometimes you have to hit them over the head before they see the obvious. On the relay circuit above, a diode Would be the correct modification to prevent electrical shock. But turning the switch 180° in the circuit should also work.

  • Where I live, money actually has to change hands before it can be considered a lottery. If the chances free, it is not a lottery. I’m not a lawyer and have no idea how your state laws are considered, but if you give everyone a chance when they purchase to get their purchase free, “no money changes hands” in order to get this chance, then it should not be considered a lottery. The purchase amount on the product has not been changed in order to give the customer that chance. It is the normal price of the item. And if the window comes up stating you have received your purchase free before the payment screen comes up, then no financial payment would be requested. I.e. there is no fee aspect within this promotion.

No public wish lists :(