Member Since: January 27, 2010

Country: United States




  • Tutorial - Recreating Classic Electronics Kits | about 3 months ago

    This is a VERY cool idea and I can’t wait to see what layouts people come up with! Thanks for putting this together :)

  • Product LCD-11987 | about 4 months ago

    Just an update: I added a backwards compatibility option to the OLED library. This is mainly for Adafruit’s version of the OLED display from Winstar, but it defaults to the newest version which is what you have already determined works best for your display.

    Adafruit has merged my pull request, so these changes are in their master lib now. You can choose to keep linking to my fork for stability, or link to their master for changes that may come in the future (good or bad). Thanks!

  • Product LCD-11987 | about 6 months ago

    Awexome to hear that this is helping you guys out ;-)

  • Product DEV-11113 | about 6 months ago

    There is no power management. If you are powering the board directly from the arduino’s VCC pin, you should probably disconnect that power source when plugging in your FTDI cable.

  • Product DEV-11113 | about 6 months ago

    That trace disconnects the 5V regulator, and it’s output 10uF cap, the VCC pin of the FTDI header and the power status LED. from the rest of the circuit. You will not be able to reprogram your circuit without powering the unit from batteries directly on the Arduino’s VCC header pin. You’ve also lost some of your 5V stiffening/decoupling… not too bad if you are not doing anything noisy with the circuit, especially since you are running on batteries. However, I think just providing a solder jumper for the power status LED is the thing that will really matter for current draw. (5V - 2V) / 10k = 0.3mA assuming it’s a red led. I can’t imagine there is much current back-feeding into the 5V regulator, but you’d have to check.

  • Product LCD-11987 | about 6 months ago

    Since you are using the Adafruit_CharacterOLED Library, you might want to look at my pull request and determine if your display will have similar but solvable issues: https://github.com/ladyada/Adafruit_CharacterOLED/pull/5 I would recommend trying it with and without my fix as they may be updating their library with the fix at some point.

  • Product BOB-11611 | about 8 months ago

    Nice, are they for sale?

  • Product BOB-11611 | about 8 months ago

    I realize the L6470 is $5, but $35 for this is kind of steep considering it takes at least 3 of these to start having any kind of serious fun ;-)

  • Product DEV-11925 | about 9 months ago

    Just dim the backlight and wake up with a touchscreen tap. I did this using the Adafruit Touch Shield and it works great.

  • Product COM-09277 | about 9 months ago

    I was confused about the “bottom” bezel for a bit, turns out you only need two of those and two of the “top” bezels for the 4x4 matrix. They interlock together to keep you from having too many screws… clever.

    You only need one of the “top” bezels for the 2x2 matrix. And if you have 4 inputs on your microcontroller, you can use the 2x2 button pad pcb without diodes. Just jumper the diode spots with a wire, and connect the “cathode” side of your jumper to GND with software pulls-up on your micro inputs. Thanks for the list @Shloimy ;-)

No public wish lists :(