SPCO

Member Since: February 10, 2010

Country: United States

  • News - Final Day to Fund the Nat… | about a year ago

    That’s an interesting analogy… Although I hope for Toyota’s sake that they don’t include any BMWs or Porsches. That would show up Toyota’s unsafe, non-driver-centric, understeering FWD cars pretty quick. :)

  • Product TOL-10553 | about a year ago

    Yes, despite being an old post, I think it’s important that everyone know that these are NOT made in China or another third world dictatorship. I own several Hakko soldering tools and everything I’ve ever bought from Hakko has said “Made in Japan” on the back. Saying that Hakko is “Asian” doesn’t help at all, since the difference between something being made in Japan and China is remarkable. These Hakko soldering irons will last easily twenty times longer than their Chinese clones, and they just feel much nicer to use - no squeaky handles and cracking plastic. Hakko builds the best soldering equipment I’ve ever used, I highly recommend getting the FX888 - it’s not even that much more expensive than a cheap Chinese clone!

  • Product COM-00312 | about 2 years ago

    Mr. Shaanxi, why do you keep commenting on SparkFun items with links to a (presumably cheaper and shoddier) part with an Engrish datasheet? I’m sure your company in China isn’t interested in selling singles to the hobby market.

  • Product TOL-10242 | about 3 years ago

    Coming from someone who’s worked both with electronics and stained glass, I can honestly say that a eutectic leaded solder is the best to work with. While I haven’t tried this specific solder, I have tried about every other lead-free solder and I always go back to leaded - it flows better, wets better and melts more uniformly. So despite a small environmental concern, I will continue to use and appreciate good leaded solder. Plus, I have no plans on throwing out my projects anytime soon and I always vacuum reclaim used solder.

  • Product TOL-09672 | about 3 years ago

    I have a friend who has one of these Hakko 936 clones. It’s OK. By OK, I mean, better than a $10 firestarter. However it’s definitely NOT a 936, and there are a few things about it that should put off even the modest hobybist: The handle seems much weaker than a real 936. The circuitry seems flaky and often doesn’t hold temperature very well, and most annoying, the recovery and output are FAR below the real 936. I’ve soldered large brass gears, motor shafts, and lead battery terminals with my 936 and it’s highly impressive. I think the heating element in this may not be nearly the same quality. I feel like it’s worth the extra for the original 936 from Hakko. (The 936 is also made in Japan, like all of my Hakko irons, which is a deal-breaker in and of itself.) Sparkfun should carry the real 936! :)

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