Member Since: February 23, 2010

Country: United States



Geek, pilot, dad.


Network engineer

  • So.. that’s interesting, because I was actually coming here to post a question about it’s ability to DETECT a cat.. The video says it works best with a flat surface (of course) but if I just need to detect the existance of a fluffy cat getting ready to jump up on a birdcage, would it work… OR, would the 40khz be annoying enough to keep the cat away, and/or should I NOT do it because it will annoy/hurt the canary?!

  • For me, it’s the reliability and consistent quality, the support site, and often times the speed to get it to me.. I buy my fair share of “cheap stuff” off of the internet when I see something interesting, but dont have a particlar project in mind, but if I know I need something specific, I try to go to sparkfun.

  • But what does the WHITE button do?!

  • It looks like the output is open collector.. Does that mean I would be able to power it with 5v for the longer range, and have the output pulled up on a 3.3v GPIO pin on a RPi? I figure if the reader is going to either be open or grounded, then the “high” voltage could depend on the pin it’s connected to? Or.. am I missing something?

  • Thanks for this great tutorial.. I’m having a strange problem though.. I was able to get the PHANT demo working, and then I went to solder headers on the dev board, and I came back, and it would no longer connect to my WiFi. I thought for sure I had destroyed the THING board with excessive heat during soldering, but I uploaded a standard ESP8266 “AT” command set firmware onto it, and using that firmware, I was able to connect to my wifi with no problem.. Loading the “Scan wifi” demo under Arduino works fine too, but for some reason, the PHANT demo never connects.. I keep getting a fast flashing blue light, and the wifi connect keeps returning status code 6 (not connected or connecting, I can’t remember which).. All my other WiFi devices are fine, and I have been fighting this for days now.. Is there anything strange that could explain this?! Thanks!

  • Since this is “unregulated”, is it not appropriate to use these to power the pi through the GPIO pins? I know it sounds stupid to cut off the connector and connect to the pins, when there’s a perfectly good micro USB on here, but in my application, the physical box is just wide enough for the pi, so I can’t have anything sticking out the side, so I’ve used the 2A regulated wall wart and powered through GPIO in the past, but I’ve read that it’s not a good idea with unregulated power… I guess it’s time to build a small regulator/fuse board that I can put on top of the pi for this..

  • I have a dumb question.. I can’t find anything detailing whether the 8266 chip ( or the Thing DEV board) has pull up/down resistors on the GPIOs, and if so, if they’re controllable in software.. Can anyone confirm? I’m looking to just monitor 3 switches, and sink a 5v relay to ground ( would that be a problem for the 3.3v GPIO if it’s set to output?

  • This RTC works GREAT with the raspberry pi, but it isn’t automatic by any stretch.. at least in current versions of Raspian.. There’s a great article here: http://www.sciencegizmo.com.au/?p=137

    This is the article I followed, and it got me to the point that my Pi was seeing /dev/rtc, and was working great with the hwclock executable.

    Good luck! Steve

  • SO.. Then if you’re limiting the current based on the difference between the supply and the voltage drop of the LED, if we had (as an easy fictional example) a 3v drop on an LED, and we ran it w/ 2x AA battery at exactly 3v, we would not need ANY resistor? And, extrapolating from that assumption, I could use 12v and run FOUR of these fictional 3v voltage drop LEDs in series with no problem? If that’s the case, can I estimate the battery life based on the current rating of the LED (ie: 20ma, meaning that it would run 100 hours off of the 2 AA batteries with 2000mah each in my example)?

  • Looking at the instructions / schematic, the “ground” pin is just hooked to the 3rd prong AC ground.. I should be able to ignore that pin then, right? All the low voltage DC side electronics are completely isolated from this anyway, and so this looks pointless to me..?? Am I missing something?

    Shouldn’t I just be able to hook up ground and a digital pin from an arduino and work this thing just fine?

No public wish lists :(