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Member Since: March 8, 2010

Country: United States

  • http://arduino.cc/playground/Main/InterfacingWithSoftware Start there. I believe something like Firmata or GoBetwino would help you out. You may be able to just script something up using serial transmissions only. Needing the type of accuracy one would desire for such a one time only event I would think that GPS or radio would be better for you. Get your GPS time, if it matches the desired set time, take the pic.

  • Don't know exactly why, but snap pop all done @ 24v w/ load. Guess I'll try to locate a new soic L298 and see if I can bring it back from the dead.

  • According to the specs provided in the datasheet for the L298 H bridge, the IC can handle up to 46v of supply voltage. I have my Vin pin isolated from the Arduino so I'm not concerned there. My question is for Sparkfun, will the traces on this PCB support running two 24v 2A geared motors? I guess we'll find out.

  • Love the design. Thanks for the schem. I need more amperage than 5.5 though.

  • I cannot see in the documentation a range of operation in reference to lumens/lux. Is this IC suitable for use with HID lamps like metal halide or high pressure sodium?

  • Can I get a 32 pin 8mm version?!

  • I have had my Arduino for a couple of weeks and I would highly recommend this product to anyone interested. It is very easy to program and the community is very helpful.

  • I have the same set-up and I just bent the Vin pin over so that it doesn't connect to the Arduino. I can't really see any reason it would need to, and without doing so, I can't see how it sould cause any problems. I'm not running at 12v, but mine is working fine. Just be sure to note that the motor driver likes to recieve a disable/enable message between direction changes. ;)

  • According to the picture shown, the microSD card is fed from the 3.3v pin. Perhaps I don't understand what the problem is?

  • Just ordered this board and motor controller. I have a question for anyone listening.
    Has anyone done this, or what would stop one from removing the supplied headers and replacing them with the stackable headers so that you could add shields on the bottom instead of the top, thereby leaving the top of the board, connections, push button, ect accessable? You would still have the headers up top but would just be able to add shields to the bottom as well, as it seems.

No public wish lists :(