Member Since: March 10, 2010

Country: United States

  • Dick Smith Electronics came to my town in the US in the 80s. They had the "Cricket", kit K-2663. It was successfully annoying.

    But then I ended up living in a Phoenix suburb for a bunch of years, where we had actual crickets living in the walls. It just wasnt funny anymore.

  • Looks neat, and Im sure it has its uses.

    Why would I get this instead of an RPI with a camera? I can get an RPI3+Camera+SD for 65, or an RPIZW+Camera+SD for 45. The RPIs can do some reasonable OpenCV stuff in both C++ or Python. Not great but not horrible either. (the Zero is pretty slow but just fine as a hi-def security camera sending pics to a server). I have both and they work for what im doing.

  • Hi. Nope. I hit GO and it came back to the cart where I needed to click a check box for the backorder. No big deal. Result as expected.

  • It looks like i missed it by one minute. Everything looked good and showed in-stock till I hit GO and it came back back-ordered. Oh well. Im gonna be a pissy-pants and not buy the other stuff I wanted, that I put in the cart. Humph.

  • This is just for AIR, right?

    It is still slower and cheaper to ship via GROUND, without these annoyances.

  • You didnt put a pulldown on the CTRL pin. Even a weak one or just unpopulated pads for resistors woulda been great. My AL8805 board flashes when turned on (till the uC goes low), and will turn on full power if it gets disconnected. 4x10W leds get hot quick.

  • Arggh I wish I read this two weeks ago. I Eagled up a four channel version of this thing so I can run four 10W LED modules (for an RGBW) at 1A (peak) each, as part of a strobey party light setup. Fortunately I could fudge a little 0603 10k between the pins 2 and 3 on the AL8805s and get startup under control. But I will have to do a revision 2. My retinas are still crying.

    I am imagining the uC disconnecting from the board by accident and letting it run full speed till something catches fire in the beam. Definitely need pull-downs integrated with the board.

  • Ive tried doing that a couple times too and my wires eventually broke off the jumper pads. I didn't like the dangling switch either.

    I think one of the lessons we are supposed to get from SFE is to take what they give us and run with it. I modified their SFE eagle file to include a DPDT SMD slide switch and a couple leds to indicate voltage (red-5v green-3v3). My FT231x board does exactly what I want it to.

  • Polycase has the correct case. Soldering the small components can be difficult but it is also completely doable with hot air or a toaster oven. The hardest part for me was getting 0.031" boards made that were both reasonably priced and decent quality. Quotes were from $3 to $100 per board. Ended up getting cheap boards and they are extra delicate during assembly (from heat).

    I updated the SFE design to include a couple LEDs for feedback (tx and ack) and changed the mcu. Using the slightly transparent cases from polycase and the LEDs are very nicely visible through the case. Seems to work just fine.

    You should just make some.

  • SFE still provides us the FOB eagle files and avr firmware and all of the components are available (from others). You should make a couple yourself. They cost around $20 in parts if you do yourself. QFNs are not that hard to solder.

    I have several FOBs and still (in 2015) use em and need more. Ive made several more. I sure wish they werent discontinued.

No public wish lists :(