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March 10, 2010
about 3 months ago
Hi. Nope. I hit GO and it came back to the cart where I needed to click a check box for the backorder. No big deal. Result as expected.
It looks like i missed it by one minute. Everything looked good and showed in-stock till I hit GO and it came back back-ordered. Oh well. Im gonna be a pissy-pants and not buy the other stuff I wanted, that I put in the cart. Humph.
News - New Battery Changes
about 7 months ago
This is just for AIR, right?
It is still slower and cheaper to ship via GROUND, without these annoyances.
about 9 months ago
You didnt put a pulldown on the CTRL pin. Even a weak one or just unpopulated pads for resistors woulda been great. My AL8805 board flashes when turned on (till the uC goes low), and will turn on full power if it gets disconnected. 4x10W leds get hot quick.
Arggh I wish I read this two weeks ago. I Eagled up a four channel version of this thing so I can run four 10W LED modules (for an RGBW) at 1A (peak) each, as part of a strobey party light setup. Fortunately I could fudge a little 0603 10k between the pins 2 and 3 on the AL8805s and get startup under control. But I will have to do a revision 2. My retinas are still crying.
I am imagining the uC disconnecting from the board by accident and letting it run full speed till something catches fire in the beam. Definitely need pull-downs integrated with the board.
about a year ago
Ive tried doing that a couple times too and my wires eventually broke off the jumper pads. I didn’t like the dangling switch either.
I think one of the lessons we are supposed to get from SFE is to take what they give us and run with it. I modified their SFE eagle file to include a DPDT SMD slide switch and a couple leds to indicate voltage (red-5v green-3v3). My FT231x board does exactly what I want it to.
about a year ago
Polycase has the correct case. Soldering the small components can be difficult but it is also completely doable with hot air or a toaster oven. The hardest part for me was getting 0.031" boards made that were both reasonably priced and decent quality. Quotes were from $3 to $100 per board. Ended up getting cheap boards and they are extra delicate during assembly (from heat).
I updated the SFE design to include a couple LEDs for feedback (tx and ack) and changed the mcu. Using the slightly transparent cases from polycase and the LEDs are very nicely visible through the case. Seems to work just fine.
You should just make some.
SFE still provides us the FOB eagle files and avr firmware and all of the components are available (from others). You should make a couple yourself. They cost around $20 in parts if you do yourself. QFNs are not that hard to solder.
I have several FOBs and still (in 2015) use em and need more. Ive made several more. I sure wish they werent discontinued.
about a year ago
I bought one of these in 2011. It never worked quite right and i cant remember successfully loading code to a single board with it. I forget every few months and take it out to try to program something and nope it doesnt work and put it back. Ive sneered at it for four years, thinking how it was a total waste of $20.
Just this week i thought up a project that could use less pins than the atmega32u4 but still wanted usb, and remembered i had this. I threw some code together in the AVR Studio and loaded it with my pocket programmer and WOOOO, it has finally been useful!
about 2 years ago
Would you believe I just got “got” again?? Grabbed a spare Arduino Pro 5V to do something with a WiFly module and spent several hours trying to figure out why it wont talk through the serial. It was those dang resistors again.
No public wish lists :(
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