Vinnie

Member Since: March 22, 2010

Country: United States

Profile

I design and fabricate prototypes. Aesthetics, electronics, documentation. I’m a do-all kind of guy.

  • Tutorial - MYST Linking Book | yesterday

    So once I’ve built it, how do I teleport to the world in the book? It seems you left the most important part out of the tutorial XD

    Really though, cool project! I would like one just so I can pretend to read at Starbucks while watching HD movies.

  • News - November Caption Contest | about 5 months ago

    When you trust an engineer to put up holiday lights… just kidding, they’re RGB.

  • News - New Product Friday: Get U… | about 9 months ago

    This is a really good product post. I’ll get one of those camera mods when I can.

  • News - July Caption Contest | about 10 months ago

    101

  • News - July Caption Contest | about 10 months ago

    Sparkfun presents: Anybody “Can” Tin.

  • Product WRL-10532 | about a year ago

    One of two things could be happening. Either A) when the motor kicks on, its generating a lot of noise on the DC supply to the RF module, which causes the module to do all kinds of freaky things. B) The RF module is too close to the motor and is picking up the electromagnetic field generated in the motor’s coils. Connect an oscilloscope to the power supply for the RF module, monitor the signal when the motor kicks on. If you see a huge spike or even noise, add a simple filter between 5V+ and RF V+. A filter could be a simple 1+ Ohm resistor feeding a 1000uf and a 0.1uf capacitor, with the RF module being powered by the caps. Increase the resistance of the resistor until the noise goes down enough to prevent the problem, while still feeding the caps with enough power to keep the module on. Then test the data pin. If the noise is only on the data pin, then you need to move the RF module further from the motor and possibly try to shield it from EMI. Also make sure you are decoupling everything, and if you have ferrite beads, use them on the motor’s wires.

  • News - January Caption Contest | about a year ago

    A real Sparkfun tech has an intimate relationship with the simple things such as the temperature of his solder, and always cleans up his beads before they hit the table.

  • Product SEN-08667 | about a year ago

    I decided to use a DSPIC instead of a binary counter. This gives more flexibility for the counter design so there is no need for and gates and the like. Also the DSPIC can generate the CLK signal required by the camera.

  • Product SEN-08667 | about a year ago

    Hey sorry for the late response. I expected to get an email when someone replied but I must not have enabled that. I’m just starting this project this week and you have some very important questions. You will need a 1.5v line for the camera, which is not included in my diagram. The diagram in my link is only concept, its not an actual schematic so don’t try to build it or you will have a broken circuit. In this scenario, the micro controller will reset the binary counter after every frame. I’m currently working on adding the extra 4 bits to the binary counter so I can count high enough to capture all 6404802 pixels. This will require some software but only enough to control the MS 4 bits (20 bits total). This is all still in the early stages but I’m glad you showed some interest.

  • Product SEN-08667 | about 2 years ago

    Also, you can ignore the button cells and digital microphone. This schematic was made for a client so its got a few extras…

    Happy soldering!

No public wish lists :(