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Quazar

Member Since: January 5, 2007

Country: United States

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Spoken Languages

English

Programming Languages

C, C++, Objective C, Java, Perl

  • This is a great board! I particularly like the 3-contact “SVG”-style ports - installing female headers allows plug-and-play with Vex robotics sensors/devices. And the Qwiic port is great for all my I2C devices.

    A few minor suggestions for future revisions: (1) add a pin-1 indicator to the 2x3 ISP header. (2) Figure out a way to get pads for the missing I/O ports, even if they can’t follow the SVG header layout exactly. (3) Add a pad and cuttable-trace-jumper to each of the LEDs and the reset switch, so they can be repurposed if desired. (4) Add a 3rd contact to J1 wired to un-switched VIN - allows power from the back but still switchable, and the existing switched-VIN terminal lets the board power other off-board devices.

  • The data sheet says “Mounting Bracket E69-1 supplied with A6A2-CWZ encoders”, but I don’t see any brackets in the product photos. Are brackets included? (I see there are two M3 mounting holes on the face, but I was curious of the clips are included or not)

  • With the updated description, I knew exactly what I was getting, and am very happy with what I got. These are perfect for adapting VEX robotics sensors and motors to non-VEX controllers.

    Regarding wire thickness, I’m happy with the heavier wire, since it can pass decent current and is mechanically stronger than tiny wires - though the description should say what the wire gauge is. I agree they might be a bit heavy for RC applications where every gram matters.

  • Nice looking little board, and just the thing for a landscape lighting project I’ve got in mind.

    One thing to consider for future board revs: Add a couple more solder jumpers so the resistors can be configured in series as well. That would provide a 3rd current option of ~167mA without requiring any additional parts.

  • ;) SHT15 is the part number for the chip - SparkFun didn’t pick it. (Well, they picked the part for this BOB, but they didn’t pick the name/number for the part).

  • I really like the microview - very cool product!

    If you are considering a rev2, please add + and - markings on the plastic case near their respective pins. When this is plugged into a breadboard (without the programmer) the curved shape of the backshell makes it a bit hard to find the last pin in each row. This makes “off by one” errors possible with the 9V supply which is not a good thing.

  • Perhaps just a stainless steel “staple” along each edge wired to inputs to be used for touch sensing. It would require a bit more assembly to wire the staples to the PCB, but should be cheaper and more compact that physical switches. I might try this mod if I ever open one up…

  • A trick I use when laying SMD-only connectors is to put a couple PTH holes at each side of the connector and then just run a bus wire up and over the part to “seatbelt” it down to the board. If the connector has a metal shell (such as µUSB), then you can solder the seatbelt to the shell itself. This makes it nearly impossible to rip an SMD connector off a board.

  • Right, the PRT-08780 is questionably RS-232 compliant because it counts on the remote end to provide the negative voltage source via pin 3. It is a clever hack, but I would always just use a MAX232 wherever possible.

    As you indicated, you will have to swap pins 2 and 3 to switch this from DCE (modem) to DTE (computer) pinout. You can do this by cutting traces and running blue-wires, or by patching the connector leads as you described, or using a cross-over cable.

    I’ve never understood why all products like this don’t include a 2x2 block of jumpers to switch between DTE & DCE - it would be a trivial thing to add and would simplify things greatly. Fortunately for me, it is wired correctly for talking to the RS232 port on my projector…

  • Unfortunately, no. I’m just using the MPL temperature, since it seems to agree with other thermometers.

No public wish lists :(