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Quazar

Member Since: January 5, 2007

Country: United States

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Spoken Languages

English

Programming Languages

C, C++, Objective C, Java, Perl

  • I really like the microview - very cool product!

    If you are considering a rev2, please add + and - markings on the plastic case near their respective pins. When this is plugged into a breadboard (without the programmer) the curved shape of the backshell makes it a bit hard to find the last pin in each row. This makes “off by one” errors possible with the 9V supply which is not a good thing.

  • Perhaps just a stainless steel “staple” along each edge wired to inputs to be used for touch sensing. It would require a bit more assembly to wire the staples to the PCB, but should be cheaper and more compact that physical switches. I might try this mod if I ever open one up…

  • A trick I use when laying SMD-only connectors is to put a couple PTH holes at each side of the connector and then just run a bus wire up and over the part to “seatbelt” it down to the board. If the connector has a metal shell (such as µUSB), then you can solder the seatbelt to the shell itself. This makes it nearly impossible to rip an SMD connector off a board.

  • Right, the PRT-08780 is questionably RS-232 compliant because it counts on the remote end to provide the negative voltage source via pin 3. It is a clever hack, but I would always just use a MAX232 wherever possible.

    As you indicated, you will have to swap pins 2 and 3 to switch this from DCE (modem) to DTE (computer) pinout. You can do this by cutting traces and running blue-wires, or by patching the connector leads as you described, or using a cross-over cable.

    I’ve never understood why all products like this don’t include a 2x2 block of jumpers to switch between DTE & DCE - it would be a trivial thing to add and would simplify things greatly. Fortunately for me, it is wired correctly for talking to the RS232 port on my projector…

  • Unfortunately, no. I’m just using the MPL temperature, since it seems to agree with other thermometers.

  • It is a snowflake invaders mini-game! H & L for left/right, and space to shoot

  • I’m using this shield with the freetronics EtherTen Aurdino clone and it came right up using the provided libraries. I have noticed that the HTU21D always reads 1°C higher than the MPL3115A2, and both seem to read a bit warm. I guess I need to calibrate them and adjust the readings in software…

    For anybody else using this with the EtherTen, you can cut out a slot in the weather shield where the RJ45 jack protrudes. This cuts the traces to the dedicated I2C pins (for R3 arduinos) and the serial wires (for GPS). You don’t need the I2C pins with the EtherTen, and if you need to use GPS, you can add the serial lines back with a couple wires. This allows the weather shield to seat onto the EtherTen without extra spacers. The only negative is that it places the sensors about 1cm closer to the warm chips on the EtherTen. Also, it voids your warranty and removes the SparkFun logo, so I guess those are negatives too ;)

  • These look great - I’m going to have to order some to play around with… How much travel do these have, and do the have a tactile click when they engage?

    It would be great if you made an RGB LED version of this.

    Also, it would be very cool if the metal button cap had an electrical connection so you could use a capacitive switching circuit to get two levels of switching in a single switch (kind of like cameras that use a light press to focus, and a full press for the shutter).

  • It can’t store more than 20 users at a time, but because you can upload and download templates, you can store the templates yourself and just upload them as needed. You could have the device scan the current user and then send you the template. You could then upload groups of 20 users and have the device compare to see if there is a match in that group. Repeat as needed.

    I suspect this would be quite slow, though.

    If you can figure out how to compare the templates yourself, you could just maintain the database of user templates elsewhere (e.g., in an Arduino) and do the matching yourself.

  • This appears not to be shielded, looking at the closeup and the pinout diagram. Or is the ground wire tied to a shield that just doesn’t show well on the closeup? Can anyone confirm?

No public wish lists :(