Member Since: January 5, 2007

Country: United States


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  • With the updated description, I knew exactly what I was getting, and am very happy with what I got. These are perfect for adapting VEX robotics sensors and motors to non-VEX controllers.

    Regarding wire thickness, I’m happy with the heavier wire, since it can pass decent current and is mechanically stronger than tiny wires - though the description should say what the wire gauge is. I agree they might be a bit heavy for RC applications where every gram matters.

  • Nice looking little board, and just the thing for a landscape lighting project I’ve got in mind.

    One thing to consider for future board revs: Add a couple more solder jumpers so the resistors can be configured in series as well. That would provide a 3rd current option of ~167mA without requiring any additional parts.

  • ;) SHT15 is the part number for the chip - SparkFun didn’t pick it. (Well, they picked the part for this BOB, but they didn’t pick the name/number for the part).

  • I really like the microview - very cool product!

    If you are considering a rev2, please add + and - markings on the plastic case near their respective pins. When this is plugged into a breadboard (without the programmer) the curved shape of the backshell makes it a bit hard to find the last pin in each row. This makes “off by one” errors possible with the 9V supply which is not a good thing.

  • Perhaps just a stainless steel “staple” along each edge wired to inputs to be used for touch sensing. It would require a bit more assembly to wire the staples to the PCB, but should be cheaper and more compact that physical switches. I might try this mod if I ever open one up…

  • A trick I use when laying SMD-only connectors is to put a couple PTH holes at each side of the connector and then just run a bus wire up and over the part to “seatbelt” it down to the board. If the connector has a metal shell (such as µUSB), then you can solder the seatbelt to the shell itself. This makes it nearly impossible to rip an SMD connector off a board.

  • Right, the PRT-08780 is questionably RS-232 compliant because it counts on the remote end to provide the negative voltage source via pin 3. It is a clever hack, but I would always just use a MAX232 wherever possible.

    As you indicated, you will have to swap pins 2 and 3 to switch this from DCE (modem) to DTE (computer) pinout. You can do this by cutting traces and running blue-wires, or by patching the connector leads as you described, or using a cross-over cable.

    I’ve never understood why all products like this don’t include a 2x2 block of jumpers to switch between DTE & DCE - it would be a trivial thing to add and would simplify things greatly. Fortunately for me, it is wired correctly for talking to the RS232 port on my projector…

  • Unfortunately, no. I’m just using the MPL temperature, since it seems to agree with other thermometers.

  • It is a snowflake invaders mini-game! H & L for left/right, and space to shoot

  • I’m using this shield with the freetronics EtherTen Aurdino clone and it came right up using the provided libraries. I have noticed that the HTU21D always reads 1°C higher than the MPL3115A2, and both seem to read a bit warm. I guess I need to calibrate them and adjust the readings in software…

    For anybody else using this with the EtherTen, you can cut out a slot in the weather shield where the RJ45 jack protrudes. This cuts the traces to the dedicated I2C pins (for R3 arduinos) and the serial wires (for GPS). You don’t need the I2C pins with the EtherTen, and if you need to use GPS, you can add the serial lines back with a couple wires. This allows the weather shield to seat onto the EtherTen without extra spacers. The only negative is that it places the sensors about 1cm closer to the warm chips on the EtherTen. Also, it voids your warranty and removes the SparkFun logo, so I guess those are negatives too ;)

No public wish lists :(