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April 28, 2010
about 7 years ago
“another distributor” has a 12.6" version of this… and they ship in a uline carboard tube. Nice. SF Folk: Use these!
I needed ~20" of tape, so I’m using one 12" tape and one 8" tape, connected in series. Exxxxxcelent!
Just want to add a few notes for those who don’t bother reading the datasheet (me!) and who may be considering this for liquid measurement.
Firstly, MiloneTech apparently has great tech support, even for the dumb questions. :) Seems like a great company, a small business (I assume) in NJ.
This has three pins for connections, which may lead you to believe that it is the voltage divider. Not so. The middle pin is inactive, the outer pins are simply either end of a variable resistor. ‘Simply’ isn’t completely accurate- there’s some cool printing tech going into making these things, and I don’t mean to diminish that– but you can look at it like your basic variable resistor. If you want to go the op-amp route, there’s a diagram on the datasheet, otherwise assume it is half of a voltage divider.
When you get one, you’ll see the word “Max” printed above the top line at about 8.6" from the bottom. Above that line, there is what appears to be a hole in the plastic (PET) film. Do not be alarmed, Milone Tech assures me that
the vent hole is fitted with a hydrophobic membrane which prevents water from entering the sensor envelope.
But don’t expect to get any change in resistance after the liquid has passed that line.
I’ve got two SEN-10221’s on the bench now that I hope to use in the touchscreen-clothes-washer project. If all goes well, I’ll add a third to keep track of the level of soap in the soap reservoir bucket. A lot of work, but I haven’t seen a washer that will email you when it’s done with the cycle, and even if someone made one I probably wouldn’t want to pay what they were asking for it!!
Go forth and geek,
about 8 years ago
That link has gone all 404. This one is probably about the same thing… (6.1 exists anyway, and has a drawing.)
I’m not using these in a breadboard, but in a project for powering an RFID reader/writer and an xbee radio. The RFID is 5v, the xbee needs <= 3.3v so this board is a great little thing to get power from any handy USB port.
To deal with the diagonal output hole placement, I used some pins (2x6) with all the extra pins cut out of the way so I can just plug on to it with a 2x6 plug. (the plug/housing is part number 87456-8 by Tyco, the receptacles are Tyco part 1-104480-5, and you don’t need the $1200 tool to crimp them onto your wires, just use needlenose pliers!) The double row pins I used are part number 5-146308-8 – this is actually 16 (2x8) pins because 12 is about impossible to get hold of. They are the breakaway design, so i just broke off the last 4 pins to make it 12, and then did a bunch of chopping for the pins that wouldn’t have any place to land on the board. SFE doesn’t sell any of these part numbers, but I’m sure you can figure out where to get them from. :)
FCI makes parts to do this with too. They are cheaper, but they are really hard to crimp, and they don’t connect as well.
I ordered 5 of these, before they changed the picture to show the new design (red board). Like ISR, I was confused and amused by the offset output pins, but after a quick note to tech support asking why in the world it changed, they refunded the cost of all 5 back to me. I pointed out that I was still going to use them, just needed to get some extra parts I didn’t know I was going to need, and they said no problem, they’d refund them anyway because it wasn’t what I thought I was getting. Now THAT is customer service. Wow!!
Out of the 6 kits I have in total, none were missing the LED, but one had an extra 240 ohm resistor and was missing the 390. No problem- customer service sent me a 390! I know, a lot of work for a 2 cent resistor, but all I had lying around in that range was 1/8th watt.
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