Member Since: May 8, 2010

Country: United States

  • I had the same error among others. I am using the Arduino IDE on Windows 10 per the instructions on Git. I got uploading to work by connecting Pin 0 to GND per one of the comments in the reviews section. After that I got some different error messages, and on the 4th or 5th attempt it finally uploaded everything. I didn’t do anything with the reset button. I think connecting Pin 0 to GND maybe reduces some noise…(use short jumper)? Use as short a USB cable as possible too, and just click upload again until it works. Good Luck!

  • There appears to be a typo on the graphical datasheet with GPIO2 labeled as GPIO21.

  • Agreed. In the Magjack, there are pairs of pins that are connected through inductor coils (“shorts”). Trying to use those pins for TTL would not work. Magjack is for Ethernet communication only to my understanding.

  • This item does not, but mated with the breakout board you can get it onto a breadboard.

  • Having success so far using two SN754410 quad half-h drivers and powering with a 2000 mAh single cell LiPo.

  • Bummer, but understandable until you have built your giant glass dome… hey what about miniaturizing the whole thing??? Rules for quads not larger than 5 inches across and have the whole course inside a bullet proof lexan half dome about 10 feet high… that’s no problem right?

  • …also missing an end quote above the RROD pic.

    So, I know quadcopters are old news, but I was thinking about placing IR reflection sensors under my propellers to quickly detect the failure of prop saver rubber bands. Although now that I think about it, keeping an eye on the current would be more reliable. It’s interesting the conversations about why or why not to build in failure detection. I guess if you’re sending people into space or building medical devices you think about that kind of thing. If you’re making… whatever that stuff we buy over and over again is called… hmmm. I guess it makes more money if it breaks?

  • Actually it does work. The LED setup is a little odd to me in that you provide a ground for LED instead of an LED power pin. I’m currently wiring one of these switches to my PC power supply converted to bench supply and the way to go was to wire the green “on” wire to the + symbol, the ground to the ‘lamp’ symbol, and -12v to the LED ground. That way, when you close the switch, green gets connected to ground, and the power supply turns on and provides -12v to the LED ground and it lights up.

    So if you are going to use this as a low-side switch you will need to come up with a negative voltage to drive the LED. Question about this: is there any danger of going above 12v on the LED from the load being switched to ground “raising the ground”???

    If you are using this as a high-side switch (as obviously intended), then you simply put your load on the ‘lamp’ symbol, your positive voltage on the + symbol, and ground on the LED ground, and it should do the same thing and light up when switched on only.

  • Really like the tutorial. Protection circuit details helped me solve an issue already, and I have a better understanding of what’s going on inside the batteries. Testing info makes me feel a lot better about things I’ve done to my batteries too. Very helpful. Much appreciation for the depth of detail here. Thank you!

  • Check out the BTS555. It’s high side and can handle lots of current.

No public wish lists :(