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Kinch

Member Since: June 9, 2010

Country: United States

Profile

Role

Quality Control Engineer

Organizations

Sparkfun Electronics

Spoken Languages

English, Japanese, German, Geek, Jive (partial)

Programming Languages

Arduino, C, Python

Expertise

B.A. History, B.A. English, M.F.A Writing & Poetics

Our (kinda) epic journey about learning the proper way to handle humidity sensors.

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  • Yes, but we re-hydrate/re-calibrate them in house so you don’t have to worry about it.

  • Really just pay attention to what your code is doing with A5 and D2 pins when you have a 328 in the ZIFF socket. A5 is connected directly to VCC and D2 directly to GND. This is done so that if you plug in an ATTINY85 instead, it will get power. The rest of the connections are just programming lines sent to the proper place for both 328 and 85 programming; no danger there. The area of the schematic labeled “ZIFF socket” maps that out.

  • “…I respect you too much to even demonstrate it.”

    Love it.

  • http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thus_Spoke_Zarathustra

    …and yes, Mike. Yes I do.

  • I can see that being beneficial should anyone need to re-calibrate their board at any point. We’ll try and get something thrown up on each product sometime soon. As of right now that information is available via (if not buried in) the datasheet. We’ll be sure to extract it for higher visibility.

    Thanks for the suggestion!

  • It actually has a container at the bottom of humidity beads that we periodically refresh with water. The controller box monitors the humidity level and if the RH gets too low it turns on the fans you see in the last picture.

  • Hmmm. At first glance this does sound like a potential power supply issue. I’ll see if I can duplicate the problem myself when I look into potential improvements on the design for V2. Thanks for letting us know though!

  • Sorry for the late reply. I haven’t tried it with 2313s yet, so this is unconfirmed:

    Yes and No. The RST, VCC, SCK, MISO and MOSI pins should line up with a 2313 if you use the socket positions closest to the lever (orient the polarity mark with the “1” silk). The only potential issue I see is grounding the 2313. The GND pin for the 2313 would slot into the XTAL2 pin on the socket, so you’ll have to temporarily ground the XTAL2 pin in order to program.

    Once I get a chance I’ll give a shot myself. If you try it though, let us know what you find!

  • Please see my comment at the bottom of the page in response to Kilo’s comment.

  • ooooh, interesting idea. We’ll definitely look into that. Thanks!

No public wish lists :(