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August 4, 2010
about 3 weeks ago
Nevermind, I watched the video and answered my own question. No major changes but some nice minor ones.
Are there any major changes between this version and the previous version? (besides the prices, thanks btw)
about 2 months ago
1) Thanks for carrying these, it’s so annoying to have to put a seperate order in to digikey for only a few things like this.
2) I wish you’d carry more smd parts like these, especially in the 0805 size, which is the smallest my old eyes can work with.
3) I think these should be pretty bright at 120mcd. For maximum current, use a 150 ohm resistor for 5V or a 60 ohm resistor for 3.3V. Though personally, I’d just use a 330ohm.
about 9 months ago
The easiest thing to do would be to use a knife to cut the small trace between the center pad and the 500mA pad. Then get a regular through hole resister and solder it into the “prog” space between the two JST connectors. Page 7 of the datasheet has a chart showing which resister to use to achieve a given output current. For 60 mA, you should use a 16k resister.
From the board, it looks like the battery in and system out are connected and just have different labels on them but could be used for either. Would somebody confirm that I’m not reading that wrong?
News - Coming soon: The SparkFun…
about a year ago
I would also really love to know the answer to this. I’m considering writing a lab manual for a class I teach and I have no idea what software to use. Should I go with simple Microsoft Word or the really advanced inDesign. Or should I do without wysiwyg and use Tex and just deal with having less control on images? Would love to know what you used Derek.
about 2 years ago
I love this little display! I wanted to be able to create images for it but nothing I saw did exactly what I wanted. So I wrote a processing sketch that creates 84x48 squares on the screen and allows you to click to turn them on or off. Also has buttons to invert, move up/down/left/right, and flip horizontally/vertically. Then, it saves the hex data to a text file to copy to your code. You can also load an image (any size, any colors) and it will scale it, convert to b/w, then put it in the rest of the program so that you can alter the pixels or move it. It isn’t perfect for every occasion but I’ve found it useful and I hope others might too. It is heavily commented so it should be easy to figure things out and change them if you want something different. http://thewanderingengineer.com/2014/07/12/nokia-5110-screen-photo-to-bitmap-converter/
about 3 years ago
Yeh, I don’t actually care about what the thread was supposed to be vs what is actually is. I just want to know, if I order a m14 tap, will that work?
about 3 years ago
Probably a dumb question but here goes… If I’ve made a shield using this kind of logic level converter to go form 5v on an arduino to 3.3v, what happens if I put it into a 3.3V arduino so that it is now going from 3.3V to 3.3V? Will it still function or just stop working?
about 3 years ago
Well today I tried to change the 900MHz to another speed again and it worked just fine. Not sure if the earlier problem was mine, the wiring, the terminal I was using, or just some upset electronics gods. But it works now so I’m very happy. I wrote a simple sketch to try and measure the range. One arduino sends a number to another arduino which then replys back to the original arduino all over these xbees. I was able to get about 300 yards on ground level but that also included lots of power lines and buildings and trees so I’d image it’d work better under ideal conditions.
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