Member Since: September 7, 2010

Country: United States

A walk-through of building what turned out to be a complicated prop.

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We all know that women are not only a minority in technical fields, but are often not encouraged to go into such fields. Here are a few ways to encourage and support the girls/women in our lives who are interested in technical fields.

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SD Cards and Writing Images

June 4, 2015

How to upload images to an SD card for Raspberry Pi, PCDuino, or your favorite SBC.

Installing an Arduino Bootloader

December 4, 2013

This tutorial will teach you what a bootloader is, why you would need to install/reinstall it, and go over the process of doing so.

How to Use a Breadboard

May 14, 2013

Welcome to the wonderful world of breadboards. Here we will learn what a breadboard is and how to use one to build your very first circuit.
  • This board was designed specifically to allow you to use an Arduino shield with a Teensy board. The off spacing is actually a feature/bug of the Arduino footprint. In order to make this compatible with Arduino shields we had to use the same spacing. Sorry for the trouble.

  • Yes, this is basically the same circuit we use on the FTDI basic which is designed for programming the Pro Mini. This just breaks out more pins. For true laziness I recommend the FTDI Basic which has a pinout to match the Pro Mini.

  • True, but keep in mind that you don’t need to be running these at 20mA each. You probably can’t tell the difference between 20mA and 10mA, and even 5mA is plenty bright.

  • As for the original question I’m not sure, I’d check out the datasheet for the sensor which should give you an idea of its accuracy. As for connecting them without soldering I personally would use jumper wires and hold them at an angle with a bit of pressure to make sure they don’t move. This does make debugging and things hard since you only have 1 hand free, but for a quick measurement should work fine.

  • Shipping weight on these is 0.5450lbs. I’ll see about getting a more accurate number on the page, but I think in this case the shipping weight is just the box and a plastic bag so should be pretty accurate.

    Edit: You can always contact our technical support team as well and they should be able to give you that number for anything we don’t have listed.

  • How a Bill gets made

  • I’m showing everything is coming up fine (although it is possible someone got to it already). My guess is either it was a temporary glitch or your network has Youtube blocked.

  • That is probably a better question for our techsupport team. Try emailing them and they should be able to help you out.

  • Looking at the schematic we do have a pullup resistor on the SDO line as it should be tied to something. There is a jumper allowing the user to disconnect the pullup and set the pin to low if they’d like. The main advantage to this is if you want to use 2 of these on one I2C bus, in that case you can change the address of one of them. In theory if you get 2 different devices that have the same I2C address you can change one as well, but this is not common.

    As a general rule you should be able to connect a pin directly to VCC (instead of through a pullup) if there is no chance you will try to pull it down.

  • The 5V pin is connected to the power on the USB connector, it is designed to be used up to 500mA, although if your source provides more then it will probably be OK (the traces were not designed for infinite current, and whether they will hold up is dependent on max current, average current, airflow, etc.) As for the3.3V line that is regulated by the AP2112K which will do 500mA. “All module pins broken out” means you have access to all free pins on the actual ESP8266. For more information check out the graphical datasheet for the board.

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