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M-Short

Member Since: September 7, 2010

Country: United States

A walk-through of building what turned out to be a complicated prop.

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We all know that women are not only a minority in technical fields, but are often not encouraged to go into such fields. Here are a few ways to encourage and support the girls/women in our lives who are interested in technical fields.

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SD Cards and Writing Images

June 4, 2015

How to upload images to an SD card for Raspberry Pi, PCDuino, or your favorite SBC.

Installing an Arduino Bootloader

December 4, 2013

This tutorial will teach you what a bootloader is, why you would need to install/reinstall it, and go over the process of doing so.

How to Use a Breadboard

May 14, 2013

Welcome to the wonderful world of breadboards. Here we will learn what a breadboard is and how to use one to build your very first circuit.
  • Sorry about that. The LEDs are actually being discontinued and so we flipped the switches to stop buying the entire line. It looks like we just ran out of the breakout boards first. I’ll look into bringing the board back for a limited time

  • That should work fine. The Pro Mini will only be running at 3.3V which for 16MHz is technically out of spec, but does tend to work.

  • These are now in stock and shipping. Took us a while to get the SD cards in.

  • Sorry about that, it looks like we missed the link to the hookup guide which was still under construction when this page went up. The FTDI is actually designed to be connected to your computer (desktop, laptop, etc.) to allow you to access the Pi over serial. The usage of a monitor is nice, but finding room for a monitor, keyboard, and mouse and setting that all up can be a pain when all you want to do is quickly modify your code. The Raspberry Pi will allow you to connect over serial using the FTDI board and a terminal window on your main computer. Check out the tutorial listed as it does go over this a bit. Oops, that’s more than one or two sentences…

  • This board is designed to go with this GPS module. As for headers, the pinout on the edge is 0.1" spacing, but you can use whatever type of headers works for your application. The GPS comes with a built in antenna meaning with just the board and the GPS modules soldered (and powered) to it you should be able to get get TTL UART signal out. Any other parts would depend on what you want to do with GPS. Keep in mind that GPS module is no longer manufactured, for our current offerings check out the GPS category and feel free to email techsupport@sparkfun.com if you have any questions.

  • Sorry about the confusion. I remember digging into the port names, pin numbers, Arduino board definitions and following traces around the board files trying to figure that out because the schematics were so confusing (we are working on cleaning those up). The result ended up in the Graphical Datasheets. But the short answer is D9=A9 and D8=A8

  • I agree with Toni, but I’d like to add a few things. That input can really come from anywhere. Typically it comes from a microcontroller, but you could also sit there with a wire connected to VCC and tap the input by hand and watch it move. You could attach it to a spinning wheel so that every rotation caused a connection and a step, etc. You can even setup a 555 timer (an antique IC that outputs a pulse that people either love or hate). But 99.9% of the time one should always listen to Toni. The Arduino Uno (or SparkFun Redboard) is a great place to start. Most of our example code is designed for this board and it is a great learning platform. As a beginner you might want to check out the SparkFun Inventor’s Kit or the Mini SparkFun Inventor’s Kit that walk you through the basics of the SparkFun Redboard. If you already have some of the components or just don’t want to buy the kit feel free to check out the manual which is online as well. You can also learn quite a bit from just reading it even without a board in front of you.

  • Thought I’d give you a heads up to check full connectivity on these. I think these might be in ding and dent because they were manufactured as 2 layer boards and not 4 layer boards. Make sure you have all 4 layers before trying to get parts to make it work :)

  • Sorry, we ended up with a mess on our schematics for the ATmega32U4 and consequently the Pro Micro. We’ve tried to fix it but it is still messy in places. The schematic on this page seems to be correct. I also know when I made the graphical datasheets I went to the ATmega32U4 datasheet to verify everything so that should be correct as well. Technically the SPI pins are used the same way in both, they are just labeled wrong in one. The actual board file never changed, just the incorrect labeling.

  • The power pin on the FTDI connection is VCC and not RAW so it will not go through the voltage regulator. 5V is safe for the Pro Mini, but you will also have 5V on anything connected to VCC (possibly including 3.3V sensors). This will also cause the Pro Mini to operate at 5V meaning its I/O will also be running at 5V. Whether that will risk damaging another board depends on the specs of the sensor.

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