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Member Since: September 7, 2010

Country: United States

A walk-through of building what turned out to be a complicated prop.

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We all know that women are not only a minority in technical fields, but are often not encouraged to go into such fields. Here are a few ways to encourage and support the girls/women in our lives who are interested in technical fields.

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SD Cards and Writing Images

June 4, 2015

How to upload images to an SD card for Raspberry Pi, PCDuino, or your favorite SBC.

Installing an Arduino Bootloader

December 4, 2013

This tutorial will teach you what a bootloader is, why you would need to install/reinstall it, and go over the process of doing so.

How to Use a Breadboard

May 14, 2013

Welcome to the wonderful world of breadboards. Here we will learn what a breadboard is and how to use one to build your very first circuit.
  • I haven’t personally tried. I know we also use this IC on the Pro Micro (both 5V/16MHz, and 3.3V/8MHz versions), but I can’t think of anything we’ve actually tried at 3.3V/16MHz.

  • The battery charging is designed to be used by plugging a USB cable into the port to provide the charging power and plugging a single cell Lipo into the JST connector on the board. The 5V from the USB cable is run through the charging circuit and will charge the Lipo at the recommended 4.2V. It is not possible to charge a phone with this board since your phone already has all the phone charging circuitry and just needs power. If you have a USB cable plugged in you might be able to reroute that power to your phone, but this board was not designed for charging phones.

  • Sorry, we were playing with file names when we shouldn’t have been. All fixed.

  • I could be wrong on this, but my interpretation is that section only applies to the USB port, not the rest of the device. If you have this board plugged in over USB it will be running at 5V. If you were getting 3.3V over your USB connection then the USB might not function correctly. But you should always be getting 5V over USB.

    As for running this at 3.3V, if you check out figure 29-2 it looks like you can safely run this at 8MHz down to 2.7V.and 16MHz down to about 4.5V. As to unsafely that is another story. We often run the ATMega328 at 3.3V 16MHz with no problem which is out of spec as well. Remember, just because it is out of spec doesn’t mean it won’t work.

  • It is definitely more than the Synthetos gShield but once you add in an Arduino, headers etc., it isn’t quite as big of a difference. I’m not very familiar with the shield, but it looks pretty similar in feathers. A lot of the cost is also in the heat sinks. Each motor driver has a small heat sink on top as well as a massive custom heat sink on the bottom. While we’ve run this with a fan to make sure it works we not found it necessary to run with one on any of our projects. Keep in mind the massive heat sink sits against one of the Shapeoko rails so there is a lot of ability to dissipate heat through the heat sink as well.

  • This ships with 0.9. Because it is fully Arduino compatible you should be able to upload new code over USB with no problem. You will have to update you settings again so you probably don’t want to do it all the time, but it should work fine when the time comes.

  • Sorry, I was looking at the combinator. Listen to Sarah.

  • The regulator we use on this is the ap2112k. I’m not sure what setup the Zero uses, but its probably not going to be exactly the same. Feel free to check out the schematic (in the documents section) or the datasheet for ap2112k.

  • Where are you seeing that information? It doesn’t look like this board has any jumpers.

  • Kind of. This accelerometer just has analog output. Once you read the data into your microcontroller you can figure out what a tap looks like and program the board to recognize that. There are accelerometers that can calculate that for you but it would have to be a digital one.