Member Since: September 23, 2010

Country: United States

  • The instructions here worked:
    How difficult would it be for SparkFun to update their drivers so that customers don’t have to jump through hoops to find proper instructions and download software from multiple sources?

  • Updated. I have this programmer and it’s finicky if you use it in the manner described by the tutorial with wires pushed into the IDC connector. If you actually fashion a proper header on your board so you are always get good contacts it works pretty well. ON WINDOWS XP. I would not recommend it’s purchase if you use Windows 7 as SparkFun apparently refuses to put any effort into Windows 7 driver support.

  • Totally agree with the guy who said this was SparkFrustrating. I finally upgraded my laptop to Windows 7 and now have a bricked programmer.
    Following Beagle Boy’s instructions, the downloaded driver will not install, or I just do not know how to do so. Double clicking on the pocketprog_x64 or pocketprog files results in a dialog saying there’s a security catalog error.
    Come on SparkFun. A year and you can’t get this fixed yet?

  • SparkFun really needs to release a Windows7 driver package for this device. Pretty shameful that they haven’t done that yet.

  • I have this programmer but would not recommend it’s purchase. It’s extremely finicky. Sometimes it works and other times it fails to initialize. There seems to be no pattern to when it works and when it does not. I wish I had saved my money and just gone out and bought the Atmel programmer.

  • For anyone who is struggling with this Hyperterminal did not work on a simple rs232 loopback test where I put pin 2 into pin 3 on the db9. Switching to teraterm fixed that, so I knew at least my usb-serial dongle worked.
    The second problem was the sp3232 will not work as pictured and described in this tutorial. You must connect the caps at pin 2 and pin 6 to ground as described in the sipex datasheet for the part. So you need 5 caps. Junctioning pin 2 and 6 with one cap does NOT work. At least not with the chip that sparkfun shipped me.

  • As a bunch of people have said, nobody has serial ports anymore. It would be very, very nice if some kind sould at sparkfun would update the tutorial to describe how to do this out of a usb port.

  • If you have 5v before the 10k resistor at the reset switch, but 0v after the resistor is it fair to say there’s a short in the circuit on your breadboard someplace? I have a two 8 bit shift registers hooked up to the avr and a bunch of leds hooked up to the shift registers.
    Note that when the programmer is hooked up and supplying power to the avr, it runs, but when it’s not hooked up, the reset line goes low after the resistor, but not before but the end result is that avr is in reset.

  • After probing the connector pins to figure out exactly where 5v was and then reconnecting all the wires, I was able to program the atmega328 with
    avrdude -p m328p -c usbtiny -U flash:w:blink.hex

  • I initially hooked up the pins on the connector in reverse. If you look at the schematic and then look at the picture of the connector with the blue text pointing out the pin locations the schematic is the reverse of the picture if you are holding the connector in your hand with the red strip oriented up.
    At any rate, if I hook it up as in the picture, not as in the schematic, I get 0v on the reset pin into the atmega328. If I remove the reset pin wire from the connector I get 5v going into the reset pin on the atmega328.
    Did I fry the pocket programmer? Would it really be that easy to fry?
    So I can’t program the mcu because it’s being held in reset. Any reason why the connector connections would pull that line low? I know, a short to ground, but this is a brand new unit received in the mail from sparkfun a couple days ago.

No public wish lists :(