Member Since: February 17, 2007

Country: United States

  • [delete this comment]

  • Additionally, this controller is supported by WebbotLib:

  • "This is the latest evolution of our serial LCD."
    What has been changed since the last version?

  • I made a video tutorial on how to use the Venus GPS. When I made this video, it was giving me really bad reception. But thinking back to it I probably would have gotten better reception if I used a different antenna.
    Apologies if this comes off as self-promotion, I'm posting my tutorials as I figure it'll be helpful for people . . .

  • Here is a video tutorial on how to make a voice control robot using the VRbot:
    Apologies if this comes off as self-promotion, I thought it'd be helpful for some people . . .

  • Here is a video tutorial on how to mod this Rover for wireless computer control:
    Apologies if this comes off as self-promotion, I thought it'd be helpful for some people considering how similar it is . . .

  • I sent an email on the 19th of November to techsupport, but never received a reply.

  • This unit does not work.
    Using this antenna (which shouldn't matter here):
    I hooked up 3.3V to VCC, ground to ground.
    I hooked up an oscilloscope to ground, and to both Tx-A and Tx-B (I tried both).
    I kept it on outside for 20 minutes . . . it's cold out there! I assume it'll still transmit data if no sat lock is made?
    Guess what happens? Nothing. No TLL signal. Tx-A gives a constant 1.8V, and Tx-B gives a constant 0V.
    So I start reading the manual in detail, and see this on page 25:
    "If you are using the serial port option, the XSTANDBY pin should always be held high."
    So I apply 3.3V to this pin, but no change.
    page 13 says:
    "XRESET Active low logic level reset. Connect to VCC with or without a pullup resistor, if not used."
    I apply 3.3V, no change.
    Anyone manage to get this to work?

  • Whoever 'designed' this board didn't actually ever use it, as made obvious by the issues I'm having.
    1) If you solder headers into the battery (for hitec connector), ISP, and uart pins, you won't be able to insert the ISP programmer connector - there isn't any room! If you use this, put your battery/uart headers underneath your board. A bit silly, but no other choice.
    2) With nothing connected but a fully charged 6V battery, this board still has bad voltage drops when turning on the transmitter. You must solder on a capacitor between ground and 3.3V or it won't work. I put a 20uF tantelum on it, and the resets went away.
    3) My first set of boards didn't even work. Upon closer inspection, the QFN chips had cold joints and solder bridges. Sparkfun did however replace them for me. But it concerns me that they weren't even tested . . .
    4) The traces look like someone used Eagle CAD auto-route and called it a day, without doing much of any touching up.

  • Actually, please read the above comment by madsci1016 - it explains the exact problem in much better detail.

No public wish lists :(