Member Since: October 5, 2010

Country: United States

  • Please? A few more?

  • If this manual is wrong, I’ll be back.

  • If this FM is wrong, I’ll be back.

  • Controller success!

    Well, I’ve done it - thanks, Sparkfun, for a great kit! Original relay worked as designed, but bypassed for SSR (Omron 25A, G3NA-225B-DC5-24, Grainger #6C903 ~$30). Otherwise, did nothing special with kit. Used the SSR to segregate voltages (per comment by “wnm”, thanks) inside of a double-gang box w/master power switch, half of a duplex outlet switched, half controlled by SSR into which I plug the toaster oven. All mounted to ½" 9-ply leftover plywood, see pics. Bought programmer (PGM-09671), followed Ryan’s directions, fiddled a bit with programming software, and viola. The SSR needed a load on it in order to behave as expected; testing prior to plugging in the oven had me puzzling for a while. PS indicator light serves as master power indicator in this implementation.

    Upon plug in, you only get blinky, nothing on screen. Program the PIC to be useful - need SFE’s PGM-09667 or -09671 or similar, then read Serial port is only for data logging (at least when using Kit Ryan’s code).

    I modified Ryan’s advanced code (thanks, Kit), modified by Member #158475, to duplicate program 1 (all 10 steps) into program 2 but changed the trailing sequences to be 1 second instead of 5 (copied the hex for program one, pasted for program 2, changed trailing 5’s to 1’s, changed the checksum digits). Please note Ryan’s instructions in the manual: 1) “The program steps must already be saved in the PIC memory”: do this either by changing supplied C code or editing supplied hex directly, prior to programming PIC. (Program 1 starts with line beginning with “:10420” & ends w/end of line “:10424”; Program 2 follows immediately; last two characters of each line is checksum digit - 2) “Setting a step timer to 0 indicates the end of the program”: this means that once you set a step to 0 seconds, it and all subsequent steps will be deleted - so beware! (Is there a “big brother” to the PIC chip that might have more memory, say, 8K, so someone might add the “add step” function?) I found that if you use all 10 steps, the program continues with the last step indefinitely, so I have set step 9 to 0 seconds in both programs. Will also send hex code to Sparkfun, “maybe they will post it.” (No warranties implied.)

    RE thermocouple: type K= yellow positive, red negative. Soldered it in, clamped it down to plywood aka strain relief using rubber washers, see pics. If you want terminals, order PRT-10571.

    Oven: purchased Oh-ster TSSTTV0000, ~$40/sale/Tar-chez; online item #13423345, not convection. Set to Toast/Bake, 450/max temp, & plug into controlled receptacle - no hack required. Enclosure says 1400 watts, website says “1200 watt output”, Kill-A-Watt meter says it draws ~1250 w/four burning. Does fairly well w/heat profile (leaded solder), but wish I had full 1500 watts (= max retail device) to help hit the peak more quickly (does anyone know of one?). Had to use additional step in program at same peak temp (220C, 25 sec) to give oven time to hit it. Believe convection models detract from heat, because circulating air would transfer more heat to/out the enclosure & dissipate. However, if we had a pin-compatible PIC with more memory, it is conceivable that you could hack a convection oven to turn on the fan in the cool-down cycle, which would be far better relieving stresses caused by overcooling (read open the oven door). Alternately, screwing COM-09648 or -09649 to the side of the enclosure w/stand-offs would probably work well, as there are perforations which would allow cool air to be introduced. RE leaded/unleaded, don’t know if these ovens have a thermal safety: Kester peak temp lead-free 235C to 255C=455F/491F? Mind you, I’m hoping to build Christmas decorations of heirloom quality w/50, 100 years L10 life, so longevity is priority, hence lead.

    For data logging on Mac w/no DB9, ordered CAB-11304, but had to remove hex nuts from controller’s DB9. Could not get nuts off of the cable! Cable should have male screws, not nuts. Not good for grounding reasons.

    I could be persuaded to program your PIC with modified 9-step OvenFlow code in both programs; email me at PICProgram at wi dot rr dot com.

    Many thanks, Nate - and thanks again, Sparkfun.

  • Good work, Sam’s Dad & Mom - providing fertile ground for this young mind, pockets ;-), and the well-timed nudge when needed, etc. The Lord knows I’ve needed one from time to time! -DeanB

  • Way to go, Sam! Never mind the Nattering Naybobs of Negativism (see above). You keep digging into your parent’s pockets (you’re allowed, you’re in 8th grade!), and keep doing cool stuff like this - and the world will be a better place. Great ingenuity! -DeanB
    PS - I could use some help on a project! ;-)

  • I’d like more info, please - newbie here w/Macbook Pro OS X.6.7, attempting to program an ATTiny13. So, I need CrossPack, Xcode, and this programmer?