NickH

Member Since: March 6, 2007

Country: United States

  • I’d be very curious to hear the same – I have a similar charger I got as promo schwag, and was disappointed to see that it wouldn’t be easy to use for a low-power sensor. (Found /very/ little info online.)

    If someone happens to sort this out for this model, I’d have three of ‘em in my cart in an instant.

  • Height from top of PCB to top of button surface: 8mm
    (Height = square button “shoulder”: 3mm + round “button”: 5mm)
    These buttons are awesome, nice clicky tactile feel, and the height of the button extends far enough to easily be reachable through many enclosure materials.

  • 100bux!?! I feel like I just discovered free component samples for the first time.
    That’s enough of a credit to do something really cool.

  • The wiring is on both sides. Don’t be fooled into thinking you can get too tricky with the layout ( I did this ), every hole is essentially a via connecting both sides.
    The best way I found to cut the traces was a steel ruler and a break-away blade. Focus on getting a clean score first, then gently work the blade back and forth in the groove to break them. I found it a lot more efficient to cut them in groups than to attack single trace points.
    The end result is really clean and impressive

  • Love the idea, dislike the implementation.
    Consider using much less obtrusive javascript? I can’t even figure out how someone would direct-link to a design, and back/forward navigation is not functional for browsing designs. Even worse, the site is entirely unusable with javascript disabled.
    (This was pointed out on hackaday, but it seems that perhaps people wanted to spark about it without offering any constructive feedback.)

  • Any chance of getting a linear (as opposed to log taper) rotary potentiometer stocked anytime soon?

  • Something to be aware of is that this is not a linear pot. (Oops) Its taper is 15A instead of 2B (linear).
    If you’re looking to use a potentiometer as in input for an Arduino or other microprocessor, this probably isn’t the one to use. Mapping the shaft position to output voltage is not a simple and easy and linear.

  • Just wanted to confirm that this is a great sensor. It seems to be most sensitive to motion that is orthogonal to the board (ie straight on.)
    @cloverstreet: I’ve seen it detect motion reliably up to ~20ft away. There is no need to reset the alarm, it doesn’t latch. The alarm pin is debounced (deflapped?) internally, and seems to cycle off on the order of a second or so.
    Also, a slight warning about the datasheet (at least for my unit): If you’re not paying attention, and use the three silver pin latches to orient the connector it’ll be backwards. As the description says, red is power, brown is ground, and black is alarm.

  • That’s exactly what I use at work. I cracked one open for a practical joke: if you remove the chip/antenna element and stick it to the bottom of the reader, nobody can authenticate.
    The antenna is wrapped around the chip itself in a small package, like a fat grain of rice. It’s quite small, I bet it would fit in your car fob.

  • If its a 5v Arduino board, yes it’s best to unsolder the vcio jumper. 3.3v Arduino boards don’t need that mod.
    However, I’ve heard (but not personally confirmed) that the FTDI FT232 is robust enough to communicate with 5v serial devices even if its running at 3.3v.

No public wish lists :(