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November 18, 2010
C, C#, Arduino (is that really a language?), Ruby, Python, etc.
Iowa State University
Anything that uses electricity.
about 7 months ago
I’ve tried a couple things to get the temperature to match what other stations around me (one about 3 blocks away), like adding a fan to keep air circulating in the radiation shield, not initializing the CCS811 or the APDS-9301, and going to a 5-minute poll rate. Even with those things, the temperature was 2-5 degrees F higher than the next nearest weather station on Wunderground.
So, I just now tried setting the BME280 runMode to 1 (i.e. :“forced”) rather than 3 (“normal”), due to the fact that the datasheet says that forced mode is recommended for my application, which is an outdoor weather station. Now it doesn’t report anything back other than 64.9 degrees F, and it’s DEFINITELY NOT 64.9 degrees F (it’s closer to 50).
EDIT: Humidity and pressure aren’t coming back right, either.
According to the source code, it doesn’t look like there’s anything else needed to run in “forced” mode, so I’m just wondering if anyone else has used this mode?
about 8 months ago
Seems like this combined with the ESP32 Thing (and in a radiation shield) routinely reads 5-10 degrees Fahrenheit higher than a commercial weather station down the street. Initially I figured it was because I was ludicrously transmitting roughly once per second, but even after I turned it down to once per minute, the temp is still high. I don’t have an IR cam, or I’d try to figure out if it’s high for some other reason (i.e. the CCS811, maybe?) I’ll probably end up adding a fan to the radiation shield to get air moving around it…
Also, looks like the CCS811 is meant more for indoor air quality as opposed to outdoor…so I may just turn that off, anyway.
Tutorial - ESP32 Environment Sensor Shield Hookup Guide
about 8 months ago
So, I’ve got it hooked up, and have run in to a couple issues, but they’re fixed…
First, the WiFi library doesn’t like it if the ssid is a ‘const char*’. I had to remove the “const” keyword, and got it to compile a bit further.
Second, make sure you’re using the most recent Sparkfun BME280 library. The one from the Arduino board manager is old and is missing a fix for some ESP32 specific SPI stuff.
about 2 years ago
Am I correct in assuming that this will NOT work with this battery, since that’s a 3-cell battery, and this is designed for a single-cell battery? Can anyone clarify?
EDIT: Or maybe I can use that battery with this product, because it’s still 3.7V and the batteries are in parallel?
about 4 years ago
This right here. Someone who knows how to do 3d printing or whatnot get on that (i.e. not me). PLEASE?!
about 5 years ago
Oh, I got it back together. Probably not the easiest way, but it works now.
I’m really happy I didn’t order the tilt-pan bracket, having finally seen the note at the bottom of the product description.
Anyway, for $12 I’m not expecting precision machining, but this thing leaves a lot to be desired. It gets the job done, but required a fair amount of pushing and shoving to get that gear in place. The clutch was also a bit difficult to get on the medium servo, but it does fit. Just be sure you don’t accidentally open the clutch, as it’s only held together with magnets.
Overall it’s not bad, but I’m waiting for that tilt-pan bracket!
about 6 years ago
I got snazzy box and hacker stickers. No rubber feet (would have been nice, but whatever). Also no anti-stat bag (again, whatever).
about 7 years ago
Yeah, it looks like the LED is present. I’m not sure if it’s backwards or not. It’s really small and I don’t have a magnifying glass (dumb). Other than that the board WAS working well. In my excitement to just get it working, I soldered some wires to the appropriate holes. After that I decided that I’d rather have male pin headers, so I tried desoldering (using wick) the wires and in the process managed to lift the pad off the dir pin. :( Anyway, it still works, but it’s now going to require an ugly looking hack to work properly.
Just got mine today. Had it up and running with a PIC18F4550 in about an hour (including solder time). Pretty easy setup.
I was under the impression that there was supposed to be an LED in one corner of the board. Either that’s been removed in this latest version, or mine doesn’t work. I mean, my board works fine and controls my stepper just fine, but there is no LED to indicate that power has been applied.
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