Member Since: December 16, 2010

Country: United States



Control Freeque

Spoken Languages

German, Spanish

Programming Languages

IEC-61131-2, CoDeSys, C, Basic, VBA, RSLogix




Industrial Control Architecture, Safety, Intelligent Motion, Software


Debunking fashionable nonsense

  • One other problem with in-box heaters is that when you need them the most, the ambient air pressure is too low to allow for convective heat transfer. My team recently launched a HAB to 20 miles, and nothing seemed to mind the cold except possibly the still camera. Next time, we will use a chemical handwarmer pressed against the camera to heat it by conduction.

  • I really hate to be such a pain, but… These things look awful. The surface finish is glossy, which could even be OK if it weren’t for all the scratches and mold marks, to say nothing of the very obvious shrinkage causing an uneven surface appearance between the buttons.

    I thought the purpose of these was to dress-up one’s project?

    Perhaps it does, but only for those accustomed to building their electronics projects with bits of scrap lumber, nails, hot-melt and duct tape.

  • I bought the COM-09264 RGB LED to go along with this PCB, and the holes are too far apart to allow the LED to seat low enough for the buttons to work.

    It will be necessary to really pull and contort the outer leads in order to bring it down, and I am afraid that will put too much strain on the LED leads where they enter the epoxy.

    Am I missing something here? Perhaps I ordered the wrong LED? What gives?

  • If you want to save yourself the bother of worrying which side is which, simply connect your circuit to any diagonal pair. You’ll never go wrong. Works for just about any 4-legged tactile switch out there.

  • Hi, guys- Anyone have an ETA on this unit? Thanks!

  • These are great relays, but IMNSHO, not so great for hobbyists on account of their closely-spaced PCB contact pins. Getting the most safety and performance requires a knowledge of high-powered PCB and/or Breadboard design techniques. If you know what you’re doing, that’s great- but if, for instance, you are unfamiliar with the concept of creepage, or selecting the right gauge wire for an application, you can get into some trouble.

    I think that a much more hobby-friendly device is something like this: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=T9AP1D52-12virtualkey65500000virtualkey655-T9AP1D52-12 This one is literally only a few cents more, and electrially identical, but use Faston connectors instead of PCB pins.
    When it comes to building high-current/high-voltage circuits, point-to-point wiring is easier and safer to do with the tools available to the average hobbyist. I cringe when I see photos of kludgey-looking projects controlling things like heaters and air conditioners with sloppy and inadequate wiring and connections. Please consider offering a different version.

  • This looks like an interesting project, but I wonder if it would be beneficial to have a choice between internal and external sync for multiplexing?
    With a large array of such matrices, I would expect the EMI spectrum to be pretty gnarly if every module is “doing it’s own thing."
    I am in favor of using a distributed synchronization clock for all LED row/column scanning, and would appreciate any thoughtful comments about this suggection.

  • LOL!
    Ah yes- Lesson #1:
    “Hot Soldering Irons look just like Cold Soldering Irons!"
    Thanx for the laugh!
    (Bravo, Charlie!!)

No public wish lists :(