PeterP

Member Since: March 29, 2007

Country: United States

  • I bet a loop of direct burial insulated wire would work well and be immune to corrosion. The capacitance of the wire will change relative the environmental moisture. We had a project involving transmitting I2C signals underwater. It worked great on the surface but as soon as it went under, the additional capacitive load caused the clock to skew and the code to lock up. We unintentionally created a water sensor. But that was salt water so it may not work here.

  • I worked with the Grideye pretty extensively a year ago and ended up moving to the much more expensive FLIR Lepton module. The Grideye is nice for the price point but suffers from a much higher effective noise level. Some of the noise is due to the underlying technology, but some has to do with the large “pixel” size. Each pixel covers about 7.5 angular degrees. This means that at 8 feet, each pixel is about 1 foot square. A heat source, such as a human head, will only cover part of that pixel. The reported pixel value includes the heat source as well as the surrounding cooler areas, yielding lower values much closer to the background level. It should work well for larger heat sources and at closer distances.

  • I really like this service. One suggestion: Can you make it an option to publicly list the kit so others can see what you have assembled? Include a short description such as “beginning learning electronics” or “advanced robotics”. That way other people can select the same kit if it meets their needs or use it as a starting point for their own kit. Often your first kit will leave something out and by starting with another kit, hopefully it will reduce these oversights.

    Personally, I want to start with my wishlist pre-loaded with the parts from a tinker kit, remove a few parts, and then add some others.

    Also you might want to ask what parts people would add to the list if you carried them. If the same part keeps reappearing, it may lead to additional inventory items to sell. Use the kit tool to discover what to sell.

  • This is a higher pin count chip (100 pin QFP instead of the 68 pin QFN) so you have more IO pins. The internal circuitry is the same.

    Also this board can operate at either 5V or 3.3V making it easy to hook up to 3.3V peripherals. The CY8CKIT-059 is fixed at 5V.

    Other than that, not much.

  • Pretty neat! I think this is the link with the design files.

  • So it appears that while the Curie module on the Tinytile has battery charging circuitry, the functionality was not included on the board. According to this thread: “The reason why the battery charging feature was not implemented on the Arduino 101 is because the standard Arduino I/O pin layout does not have the provision for a battery charger. External hardware is needed for multiplexing the charger interface to the standard I/O pin.”

    This module is so, so close to the perfect IoT/wearable sensor with on-board pattern rec, BLE, and motion sensors but ultimately misses the mark. It would have been simple to break out the necessary pins for charging a small lipo battery. The really frustrating thing is that the reason the battery charging circuitry was left off the board shows that the designers have a basic misunderstanding of how the board would likely be used.

    https://communities.intel.com/thread/112898

  • I know I’m a little late to the party, but in the past I’ve fixed this mistake with a tiny piece of polymide tape such as PRT-10687 on the board.

  • It’s not sturdy at all. I have to redo a board because these connectors are popping their landing pads off the board at the slightest amount of stress. Moving to a through hole micro B part.

  • Thanks! Ignore the customer service email I just sent.

  • The link to the STK Experiment Guide and the Getting Started button both return 404 errors.

No public wish lists :(