Member Since: December 30, 2010

Country: United States



Working to build a new lighting and automation platform for the hobby industry. If you have model train layouts, if you design or create model buildings, or if you just love designing and building totally new creations, we’ll soon have the most flexible, expandable, and exciting set of products to bring your creations to life.


Chief Enthusiast


Enthusiast Enterprises, LLC; Brickstuff


Start-ups, LEGO® buildings and trains, garden railroading, just about anything involving SMD LEDS.


  • Product COM-11756 | about 6 months ago

    Also, if you cut the string into shorter strings, just use sandpaper to rough up the ends of the newly-cut wire (the wire has a coating so you can’t solder or connect to it without “roughing up”). Use a lot of flux on the end of the wire, and you will be able to solder another wire, resistors, etc. to the end of the light string wire.

  • Product COM-11756 | about 6 months ago

    For anyone wanting to run these off 4.5-5V, I found that using a 47 ohm resistor works well. Note that I use this resistor after removing the one that comes with the string– I have a need to cut the string into smaller segments, so I’m just using a 47 ohm resistor for each shorter string.

  • Product COM-11756 | about 6 months ago

    I tested mine– it was 10 ohms.

  • Product PRT-11359 | about a year ago

    Does anyone know the minimum current draw to keep the battery on? I’m using it to power some LEDs and I don’t think they are pulling enough current to keep the battery on– it shuts off after 10 seconds or so.

  • News - Little Box Stores | about 2 years ago

    +1 for Hub Hobby in Minnesota. They have 2 stores and are the best surviving example of what hobby stores used to be when I was a kid. Something for everyone, a place to go to be inspired and amazed, and all hobbies covered. It’s a great place!

  • Product COM-09277 | about 3 years ago

    Any chance SFE could start carrying RGB LED’s that had common anode? I bought this pad (along with all accessories and the diffused RGB LEDs from SFE), and I’m using a TLC5940 to connect two of these boards. The TLC5940 can only sink current, so I spent days trying to put a square peg into a round hole. Would be good to have a tutorial or page on this product page listing the differences between common anode and common cathode (which I know now) and also cautioning users to double-check the specs of the LED driver they plan to use. Now for a lot of not-so-fun desoldering and replacement with common anode LEDs from another vendor….

  • Product WRL-08664 | about 3 years ago

    Just answered my own question. These are NOT Series 2 radios. The Series 2 chip antenna radios are here:
    Need to cancel my order….

  • Product WRL-08664 | about 3 years ago

    I just ordered two of these (don’t have them yet) and just started reading Rob Faludi’s book today. Can I assume these are Series 2 devices? Didn’t see v1 or v2 called out specifically in the specs online….. Hoping they are Series 2!
    Anyone know? Thanks!

No public wish lists :(