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Member Since: December 30, 2010

Country: United States

  • There is already a very large market for LEGO-compatible LEDs. My company makes some (www.brickstuff.com) and there is also www.lifelites.com among others….It’s one of the fastest-growing trends in LEGO.

  • Agreed, it will be interesting to see how this new platform does in what is already becoming a crowded field.

  • Why do I need so many PWM? I’m in the lighting effect business, so PWM is one of the main factors that governs my platform selection. True, you can always add a bit shifter or dedicated PWM, but I was hoping this would have more PWM given its power. Also, on the IoT/wearable topic, I doubt this is the product for that– its price point is orders of magnitude too high for either.

  • Is it just me, or is it almost laughable that a board this powerful and expensive has two FEWER PWM outputs (4 vs. 6) than the Arduino Uno?

  • Also, if you cut the string into shorter strings, just use sandpaper to rough up the ends of the newly-cut wire (the wire has a coating so you can’t solder or connect to it without “roughing up”). Use a lot of flux on the end of the wire, and you will be able to solder another wire, resistors, etc. to the end of the light string wire.

  • For anyone wanting to run these off 4.5-5V, I found that using a 47 ohm resistor works well. Note that I use this resistor after removing the one that comes with the string– I have a need to cut the string into smaller segments, so I’m just using a 47 ohm resistor for each shorter string.

  • I tested mine– it was 10 ohms.

  • Does anyone know the minimum current draw to keep the battery on? I’m using it to power some LEDs and I don’t think they are pulling enough current to keep the battery on– it shuts off after 10 seconds or so.

  • +1 for Hub Hobby in Minnesota. They have 2 stores and are the best surviving example of what hobby stores used to be when I was a kid. Something for everyone, a place to go to be inspired and amazed, and all hobbies covered. It’s a great place!

  • Any chance SFE could start carrying RGB LED’s that had common anode? I bought this pad (along with all accessories and the diffused RGB LEDs from SFE), and I’m using a TLC5940 to connect two of these boards. The TLC5940 can only sink current, so I spent days trying to put a square peg into a round hole. Would be good to have a tutorial or page on this product page listing the differences between common anode and common cathode (which I know now) and also cautioning users to double-check the specs of the LED driver they plan to use. Now for a lot of not-so-fun desoldering and replacement with common anode LEDs from another vendor….

No public wish lists :(