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robbok

Member Since: December 30, 2010

Country: United States

Profile

Bio

Working to build a new lighting and automation platform for the hobby industry. If you have model train layouts, if you design or create model buildings, or if you just love designing and building totally new creations, we'll soon have the most flexible, expandable, and exciting set of products to bring your creations to life.

Role

Chief Enthusiast

Organizations

Enthusiast Enterprises, LLC; Brickstuff

Interests

Start-ups, LEGO(R) buildings and trains, garden railroading, just about anything involving SMD LEDS.

Websites

www.brickstuff.com

  • Can you post the datasheet for the TOLED itself? Would be very helpful. Thank you. ACTUALLY SCRATCH THAT-- looks like it was in the Github. Thanks!

  • These look very cool. Do you know if they will work with wireless power transmitters like Qi phone chargers? This isn’t NFC specifically but it is a radiated energy field.

  • Hi, based on my results using a Pro Micro at 16MHz an an external SD card operating full-speed, loading optimized bitmap images, doing nothing else but updating the display, I'm getting about 2-3 frames/second. I can't imagine how anyone could refresh the display (with real image data, not lines/circles/etc in the GFX library) at anywhere near 50x/second. Each frame is 8,192 bytes of information, so that's 16,384 bytes you need to send up and down the SPI bus per second (SD --> Arduino --> display), and the SPI bus is capped by your library at 8MHz. Doing the math, I don't see how you could get more than maybe 4 frames/sec. That's still pretty good if you don't need real-time video-- the displays are so sweet in terms of size.

  • Thanks. I understand the question was fairly general. I spent a lot of time today trying to make the display work with my SD card reader. Both work individually but I'm not having any luck getting them to work together. Here's what would be really helpful: if you could take the example sketch you include with the OLED that displays the bitmap (say, the Mona Lisa) and modify it to read the bytes from the SD card (assume it's just a text file on the SD card with the same content as the sample files you provided with the library) instead of from the serial input stream. It should be relatively easy (replace the serial.available with file.available, and process the streams) but I can't get anything working. Hopefully this wouldn't take up too much of your time and would be generally useful for others-- basically doing a port of your draw bitmap example to read the byte stream from a text file on the SD card instead. Is this doable?

  • Hi, just got these today-- they look fantastic. I need to create a setup to show video. I see the bitmap functions, but how would the code work to create what would essentially be a stream of consecutive bitmaps? I know I need an external SD card, so let's assume I have that. What next? How to convert a video to all the bitmaps needed, then how to pump them all through? I think this will be a core use case for many of your customers, so it would be helpful to have code to use. Thanks!

  • There is already a very large market for LEGO-compatible LEDs. My company makes some (www.brickstuff.com) and there is also www.lifelites.com among others....It's one of the fastest-growing trends in LEGO.

  • Agreed, it will be interesting to see how this new platform does in what is already becoming a crowded field.

  • Why do I need so many PWM? I'm in the lighting effect business, so PWM is one of the main factors that governs my platform selection. True, you can always add a bit shifter or dedicated PWM, but I was hoping this would have more PWM given its power. Also, on the IoT/wearable topic, I doubt this is the product for that-- its price point is orders of magnitude too high for either.

  • Is it just me, or is it almost laughable that a board this powerful and expensive has two FEWER PWM outputs (4 vs. 6) than the Arduino Uno?

  • Also, if you cut the string into shorter strings, just use sandpaper to rough up the ends of the newly-cut wire (the wire has a coating so you can't solder or connect to it without "roughing up"). Use a lot of flux on the end of the wire, and you will be able to solder another wire, resistors, etc. to the end of the light string wire.

No public wish lists :(