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SparkFun Electronics will be closed on July 3rd, 2015 in observance of Independence Day. Any orders placed after 2:00pm MT on July 2nd will be shipped out after the weekend. Thanks!

robbok

Member Since: December 30, 2010

Country: United States

Profile

Bio

Working to build a new lighting and automation platform for the hobby industry. If you have model train layouts, if you design or create model buildings, or if you just love designing and building totally new creations, we’ll soon have the most flexible, expandable, and exciting set of products to bring your creations to life.

Role

Chief Enthusiast

Organizations

Enthusiast Enterprises, LLC; Brickstuff

Interests

Start-ups, LEGO® buildings and trains, garden railroading, just about anything involving SMD LEDS.

Websites

www.brickstuff.com

  • There is already a very large market for LEGO-compatible LEDs. My company makes some (www.brickstuff.com) and there is also www.lifelites.com among others….It’s one of the fastest-growing trends in LEGO.

  • Agreed, it will be interesting to see how this new platform does in what is already becoming a crowded field.

  • Why do I need so many PWM? I’m in the lighting effect business, so PWM is one of the main factors that governs my platform selection. True, you can always add a bit shifter or dedicated PWM, but I was hoping this would have more PWM given its power. Also, on the IoT/wearable topic, I doubt this is the product for that– its price point is orders of magnitude too high for either.

  • Is it just me, or is it almost laughable that a board this powerful and expensive has two FEWER PWM outputs (4 vs. 6) than the Arduino Uno?

  • Also, if you cut the string into shorter strings, just use sandpaper to rough up the ends of the newly-cut wire (the wire has a coating so you can’t solder or connect to it without “roughing up”). Use a lot of flux on the end of the wire, and you will be able to solder another wire, resistors, etc. to the end of the light string wire.

  • For anyone wanting to run these off 4.5-5V, I found that using a 47 ohm resistor works well. Note that I use this resistor after removing the one that comes with the string– I have a need to cut the string into smaller segments, so I’m just using a 47 ohm resistor for each shorter string.

  • I tested mine– it was 10 ohms.

  • Does anyone know the minimum current draw to keep the battery on? I’m using it to power some LEDs and I don’t think they are pulling enough current to keep the battery on– it shuts off after 10 seconds or so.

  • +1 for Hub Hobby in Minnesota. They have 2 stores and are the best surviving example of what hobby stores used to be when I was a kid. Something for everyone, a place to go to be inspired and amazed, and all hobbies covered. It’s a great place!

  • Any chance SFE could start carrying RGB LED’s that had common anode? I bought this pad (along with all accessories and the diffused RGB LEDs from SFE), and I’m using a TLC5940 to connect two of these boards. The TLC5940 can only sink current, so I spent days trying to put a square peg into a round hole. Would be good to have a tutorial or page on this product page listing the differences between common anode and common cathode (which I know now) and also cautioning users to double-check the specs of the LED driver they plan to use. Now for a lot of not-so-fun desoldering and replacement with common anode LEDs from another vendor….

No public wish lists :(