Track My Order
Frequently Asked Questions
International Shipping Info
Mon-Fri, 9am to 12pm and
1pm to 5pm U.S. Mountain Time:
Chat With Us
January 11, 2011
about 5 years ago
I totally agree on the mounting holes.
USB power supply is impossible though. If this thing tried to draw the rated 2A off your USB port bad things would happen for sure. :)
I’m using a TMobile SIM. Not much trouble walking in a just buying the activated card. Without a cell phone they had to call a special phone number to activate it… But other than that, no biggie.
I got the pay as you go account cause I wont have a lot of usage on this thing.
Are you talking about the little solder jumpers on the board that you have to clear if you dont want to use the on board USB port? They are tiny and near the barrel jack port and button.
Oh and TimB44 was right with the “AT+SBAND=7” command.
After I got the terminal connection to work I had to send that with a before the chip would connect. It seems to remember that setting now though. I dont have to send it every time I start it up.
Thanks for letting me know Mike.
I took the time to comment out of shear frustration, but now I’m glad it actually served a purpose.
I think part of the problem is that they link to a tutorial that uses a different board. The tutorials board looks like an actual arduino compatible shield. I have to be honest in that I thought this was one of those when I bought it, but that was my fault I guess for not looking closely enough at the picture in the tutorial.
My card is a TMobile and it’s working so I must have gotten lucky. Probably good that I did, cause as frustrating as it was without SIM card trouble I would have straight lost it, lol. I still have no idea on some of the garbage I get as soon as I turn it on, do you get that?
So for the record, there needs to be better documentation on just using this board by itself. No Adruino… Just the USB port it comes with.
Here’s a few tips that would have saved me some time.
1. Start with the power switch off.
2. Plug in the USB cable and make sure windows recognizes it as a com port.
3. Plug in a separate power source to the barrel jack that can handle the 2 amps that might be drawn.
4. Using a terminal program connect to the new COM port using a BAUD rate of 115200… 8 data bits – no parity – 1 stop bit.
5. Turn the power switch on.
At this point I get 5 groups of garbage and then it starts speaking intelligently with SIND messages updating me on it’s progress in connecting to the network.
SIND 11 is the one to watch for that typically says it’s connected and ready to go.
No public wish lists :(
Forgot your password?
No account? Register one!