Tacroy

Member Since: January 12, 2011

Country: United States

  • Product BOB-10403 | about 2 years ago

    If all you’re doing is 5V to 3.3V (or 2.8V or 1.8V), the logic level converter is a better deal. What this thing does is translate between a range of voltages on either side; for instance, you can use it to translate between, say, a 1.8V sensor and a 3.3V microprocessor, which is out of range for the logic level converter.

  • Product COM-10975 | about 3 years ago

    Probably, but I imagine that it would only work well if you were being yelled at by giants.

  • Product TOL-10865 | about 3 years ago

    I just got mine, and here’s what I measure:
    The straight extension shaft head is a smidgeon more than 0.25".
    The bendy extension shaft is a bit wider at .44".
    Depending on how deeply the bolts are recessed, you could also stick the torx bit inside the 4.0 M hex socket, which is pretty long and skinnier than the extension shaft. Might be hard to recover afterwards unless you can tip the enclosure over.
    Though I have to say, if you’re really worried about the tool being too wide, you just can’t go wrong with a set of plain old torx screwdrivers.

  • Product KIT-10836 | about 3 years ago

    Oh man, I might have to order one of these just to see if I can reverse-engineer that nifty “program it from the website” thing. It looks like it’s all done client-side and they haven’t obfuscated their Javascript code, so it shouldn’t be too difficult.

  • Product PGM-09973 | about 3 years ago

    Huh, I had no trouble getting this to work with a breadboard using the tutorials at Gooligum Electronics (as recommended by the PIC forums here on Sparkfun), and that’s for PICkit 2 with the PIC Starter Kit.
    The only weird thing is that this comes with a poster that seems to claim that the pin numbering on the PICkit is in some really odd order, when in reality they’re in numerical order.

  • Product DEV-10350 | about 3 years ago

    This stuff looks awesome, but I have to ask - judging by the ribbon soldering tutorial, it seems like the only thing keeping the ribbon and the brick together is the solder. Does that actually last? I would imagine that solder would be unhappy with all the stretching and bending that fabric does. Would it be useful to reinforce the connection with thread, or would that not actually do anything?

  • News - According to Pete - June … | about 3 years ago

    What I liked the most about this episode was that Pete talked about some of the engineering reasons behind the setup on a kit I’ve assembled (the through-hole breadboard power supply). I liked finally understanding why I had to solder in two different capacitors that looked pretty much the same :)
    I think it would be interesting to go over the reasons why some other SparkFun kits are assembled the way they are, especially for ones where it might not be completely obvious.

  • Product KIT-09867 | about 3 years ago

    Hmmm… if you get those LEDs individually it’s nearly $50 for 27 - but there’s a pack linked down there with 25 of these guys for $20. Maybe this kit’s price should be reviewed?

  • Product DD-09039 | about 3 years ago

    arbarnhart:

    I am hoping for an “n” degrees of freedom board that only reports “n-1”; a little bird told me that is one of the most common things in “bad” sensors…
    Your little bird must be pretty accurate, that’s almost exactly what I got! I received a 5 DoF board, hooked it up to an oscilloscope, and discovered that 4 DoFs work - I get nice clear signals for X, Y, X-rotation and Y-rotation. Even Z (which I assume is the broken one based on comparing its waveform to X and Y) still kinda works - it’s just very very fuzzy instead of nice and smooth like its siblings.
    Now all I need to do is order more stuff in order to make something neat with it - that’s how they get you I guess :)
    Edit: Chuh this was supposed to be in reply to arbarnhart up there as indicated, it seems that got lost when I previewed the post?

  • Tutorial - Sneaky Footprints | about 3 years ago

    Haha that must be the super intuitive thing to do; I just soldered my first ever row of header pins (I got a five DoF thingy from dings and dents, so I figured I could practice on it - later I’m gonna put it in my breadboard and see what works), and came up with exactly this technique.

No public wish lists :(