Timmeh

Member Since: January 13, 2011

Country: United States

  • I just use a single iron, load up some solder on one side and bridge across the component with the tip. Never had an issue taking them off. If one side of the component is connected to a plane, that's the side I'll add solder to and focus most of the heat.

  • So, go design your own board if you're not happy with the price. There's no magic here and the part is readily available. RTK-GPS was $10 - $20k a few years ago.

  • "Water rating: IPX"

    What does this mean?

  • I'm also wondering if this is ESD safe.

  • removed

  • Look at Vishay SMF15A-E3-08, standoff voltage of 15V and breakdown of 16.7V. Max clamping voltage of 24.4V @ 8.2A. Even though the clamping voltage at 8.2A is above your 20V max doesn't mean this TVS wouldn't work. This is where the engineering comes in, how much energy does your transient carry with it? Will the diode clamp below 20V can then be determined through simulation and testing. I mean props to you guys for verifying your work but did you try using a TVS diode instead of dismissing a readily available solution?

    Side-note: I would also be worried about ESD blowing the gate-source junction of your FET. There's nothing to limit the voltage across the junction during a large voltage transient and since your cap is after your suppression circuit it might not help enough to save the transistor.

    The other thing that you might want to consider is using a battery to power your circuit, something that can deliver some actual current. The voltage of your transient is going to depend on how much current is available to charge those input caps. If you get above 20V on your gate-source junction then the MOSFET is going to be damaged.

    Another solution entirely is to use a soft start circuit for your cable length problem.

  • Why not use a TVS diode for the voltage clamping? That's what they're designed for. Just make sure the standoff voltage is above your max intended DC voltage and the clamping voltage is below the max input voltage of your regulator. They come in all sorts of power ratings. If the clamping voltage is above what your regulator can handle then get another regulator, there are plenty to choose from with higher max input voltages.

  • Nice work Pete, the lighting looks great. I also recently installed some LED lights under my cabinet but ended up using those waterproof LED strips.

  • Applications of the basic current mirror circuit that I have used it for:

    1) Very simple voltage controlled current source (this has been the most handy for myself) 2) Change a sinking current into a sourcing current or the other way around 3) Active loads on an amplifier (okay... not something I usually do) 4) Setting bias currents that are identical or multiples of the mirrored current 5) I've used it to maintain consistent LED brightness over a bunch (10ish) LEDs

  • Congrats to Bill and Mara and great job with the cards! I just hope you didn't have to send out too many of these, weddings are expensive enough as it is.

No public wish lists :(