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SparkFun Electronics will be closed on July 3rd, 2015 in observance of Independence Day. Any orders placed after 2:00pm MT on July 2nd will be shipped out after the weekend. Thanks!

abplc5

Member Since: January 31, 2011

Country: United States

  • I keep seeing questions about the regulator… The ones I just received (marked V14) have Micrel MIC5219-3.3BM5 regulators on them. SOT-23-5 package, topside marking “LG33”. Datasheet indicates 500mA PEAK output. Continuous output gets complicated (varies depending on input voltage, thermal situation, etc.) but 200mA continuous seems to be about typical with a 5 volt input. Higher input voltages will result in lower continuous current capability due to greater dissipation.

    From a practical standpoint, I’ve been running mine all day with a 50 mW XBee Pro with RPSMA antenna (XBP24-ASI) and 5 volt power supply, and it’s doing just fine - no sign of overheating, no thermal shutdowns, no problems.

  • Dunno what all the fuss is about… :P I bought one of these today, followed the instructions, and it works great. Exactly what I needed for cheap & easy Serial comms - riding on an Ethernet - between PC and ATMega328.
    Here’s my idea of a noob’s guide to the product (since the instructions are a mess).
    1) You need to download 2 pieces of software: the Configuration Tool and the “VCP” (COM Port redirector - quite important!) At the time of this posting, the software is all at THIS LINK
    2) If you plug the Wiz110SR’s serial port into a PC (like, for config & test) you need to use a Null Modem cable. The 110SR is DTE, not DCE.
    3) Remember that if you change baud rate you have to do it in 3 places, not the usual 2. Change it on the equipment on each end of the link, and also change it on the 110SR itself using the Config Tool software.
    4) The connections (J4 and J5) can be used as others have posted: to grab RXD and TXD at logic level for your micro. Note that the signals are 3.3 volts, not 5 volts. J3 is ground, J2 is power from BEFORE the regulator - use J2 as an alternative place to power the device from, NOT as a place to tap power from.
    There’s also a J1 (row of 5 holes J1-1 thru J1-5) that looks interesting but I haven’t figure out what the signals on it are yet.
    5) If you don’t have a spare 5 volt wall wart handy, order one with the device. It doesn’t come with one. I found out all my spare warts were 12 volt so had to go shopping before I could use my new device.

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