Bruce The Hoon

Member Since: February 2, 2011

Country: United States

  • I wanted to jump in and say that this is one of the best, most thoughtfully designed boards I’ve touched in years. Not only is the 10DoF absurdly accurate, BUT:

    • I was able to calibrate it while it was 2" from the large surface transducer you sell. I did put a 1/16th sheet of steel in between, and the calibration was not perfect, but it was more than good enough for non-precision gesture detection (such as swinging it back and forth and it knowing which direction it was going)

    • The little amplifier on the board is not only capable of driving your large surface transducer to the point of distortion (easily fixed by changing the mixer levels), but is also capable of driving this (comparative) monster: Dayton Audio TT25-8 PUCK Tactile Transducer Mini Bass Shaker 8 Ohm. It might not have been couch shaking volume levels, but when lightly set on an air tight cardboard box, the bass was nearly uncomfortable from a couple feet away.

    • The library support is excellent, and as I’ve seen before with Paul’s designs, there has been thought put into pin allocation and an attempt to ensure that there are plenty of usable pins left over.

    In my design, I’m driving a transducer while monitoring pitch and yaw, driving 20 APA102 leds, driving a single 8W LED with PWM (through a dedicated CC LED driver), accepting input from a hall effect sensor that’s on a 39" leash (mounted in the same installation, but far away), triggering a 5V solenoid through a mosfet, and playing MP3 and WAV files, one of which is “It’s getting too damn hot” after the MPL3115A2 reports a temperature higher than 112F.

    If I had a wild dream version of this board, it would include the audio chip from Paul’s Audio shield so that I could maintain the LED updates while some of the more heavy audio processes are running without dropping frames. I don’t KNOW if there’s a pin compatibility issue with the Audio shield and this, but I’m willing to bet there is. In any case, this is a freakishly useful board, and I now have five of the LC versions mostly for the amplifier and flash for audio projects. I highly recommend these boards.

  • The issue is that the output will never be fully “off” in this instance. A version using a hex inverter to properly invert the signal would be very useful. I’m working on a high power LED project using external drivers, and having this all nicely packaged up would be delightful.

  • If you can’t hotplate these (I do with an identical unit), the best way I’ve found to solder them is to apply solder paste to the OUTSIDE edges of the pads, place the led in the middle, then using a hot iron (I’m at 680), push the solder towards the led. It’s absurdly simple once you’ve done just one, and after hundreds of these buggers (I have components on the other side of the board), I’ve only messed up one and that was because I put it on backwards and didn’t take the time to hot air it off, so I tore a pad. DERP!

  • Anyone that wants to run this chip VERY easily from an Arduino should look at the FASTSPI lib: http://code.google.com/p/fastspi/
    FAR better than the example approach.

  • Anyone that wants to run this chip VERY easily from an Arduino should look at the FASTSPI lib: http://code.google.com/p/fastspi/
    FAR better than the example approach.

  • Tada: http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/01/free-print-and-stick-pinout-label-f.html

  • HMMMM. It’s worth noting that the signal you get from using this with the Arduino library might not be what you expect. As a constant current sink, this chip will generate a LOWER duty cycle as the value is increased in the code. Applying a value of 4096 will turn it into ESSENTIALLY an open drain. Sending 1 will make it have almost a 100% duty cycle. This can be addressed in code easily by mapping 0,4096,4096,0 etc, but should be remembered. You can also throw a hex inverter in between this unit and your target if you’re looking to JUST generate pulses and constant current is unimportant.

  • You can parallel the outputs as shown here:
    Or you can use mosfets as shown here:

  • And here’s a slightly better one for a much better price - Cree is solid most of the time.

  • The trick is to go to TI.com and search for it there. They have a distributor search that you can use. For instance: http://avnetexpress.avnet.com/store/em/EMController?langId=-1&storeId=500201&catalogId=500201&action=products&N=0&mfr=TIS&hrf=http://focus.ti.com/general/docs/usercart.tsp&term=TLC5940NT
    almost 200 in stock. $2.21 :)

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