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Bruce The Hoon

Member Since: February 2, 2011

Country: United States

  • Product DEV-10615 | about 3 years ago

    The issue is that the output will never be fully “off” in this instance. A version using a hex inverter to properly invert the signal would be very useful. I’m working on a high power LED project using external drivers, and having this all nicely packaged up would be delightful.

  • Product COM-10866 | about 3 years ago

    If you can’t hotplate these (I do with an identical unit), the best way I’ve found to solder them is to apply solder paste to the OUTSIDE edges of the pads, place the led in the middle, then using a hot iron (I’m at 680), push the solder towards the led. It’s absurdly simple once you’ve done just one, and after hundreds of these buggers (I have components on the other side of the board), I’ve only messed up one and that was because I put it on backwards and didn’t take the time to hot air it off, so I tore a pad. DERP!

  • Product BOB-10504 | about 3 years ago

    Anyone that wants to run this chip VERY easily from an Arduino should look at the FASTSPI lib: http://code.google.com/p/fastspi/
    FAR better than the example approach.

  • Product COM-10444 | about 3 years ago

    Anyone that wants to run this chip VERY easily from an Arduino should look at the FASTSPI lib: http://code.google.com/p/fastspi/
    FAR better than the example approach.

  • Product DEV-10523 | about 3 years ago

    Tada: http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/01/free-print-and-stick-pinout-label-f.html

  • Product DEV-10615 | about 3 years ago

    HMMMM. It’s worth noting that the signal you get from using this with the Arduino library might not be what you expect. As a constant current sink, this chip will generate a LOWER duty cycle as the value is increased in the code. Applying a value of 4096 will turn it into ESSENTIALLY an open drain. Sending 1 will make it have almost a 100% duty cycle. This can be addressed in code easily by mapping 0,4096,4096,0 etc, but should be remembered. You can also throw a hex inverter in between this unit and your target if you’re looking to JUST generate pulses and constant current is unimportant.

  • Product BOB-10616 | about 3 years ago

    You can parallel the outputs as shown here:
    http://focus.ti.com/general/docs/lit/getliterature.tsp?baseLiteratureNumber=slva253
    Or you can use mosfets as shown here:
    http://focus.tij.co.jp/jp/general/docs/lit/getliterature.tsp?literatureNumber=slva280&fileType=pdf

  • Product BOB-10504 | about 3 years ago

    And here’s a slightly better one for a much better price - Cree is solid most of the time.
    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CLV6A-FKB-CK1P1G1BB7R3R3TR-ND

  • Product BOB-10616 | about 3 years ago

    The trick is to go to TI.com and search for it there. They have a distributor search that you can use. For instance: http://avnetexpress.avnet.com/store/em/EMController?langId=-1&storeId=500201&catalogId=500201&action=products&N=0&mfr=TIS&hrf=http://focus.ti.com/general/docs/usercart.tsp&term=TLC5940NT
    almost 200 in stock. $2.21 :)

  • Product BOB-10616 | about 3 years ago

    I think the obvious advantage here is that, for nearly the first time, Sparkfun has decided that we like mounting things. The mounting holes mean I could picture actually DEPLOYING a sparkfun breakout board for the first time!
    (I just created a complete arduino board with a TLC5940 built in and completed it… Yesterday.)

No public wish lists :(