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February 13, 2011
News - Enginursday: The Littlest… |
about 3 months ago
Wonderful essay. Mr. Tolkein’s quote “He who breaks a thing to find out what it is has left the path of wisdom” infuriated me when I read it. Breaking things is he path of wisdom.
Product ROB-12551 |
about 3 months ago
Would this fold if used as a guitar neck? Is it strong enough to support one or more strings, tuned to make music?
Product PRT-00114 |
about 3 months ago
A simple and reliable kit. The only trouble I had was that I tested it on a breadboard with two separate regions, served by two different power rails. So it looked like it wasn’t working until I put my jumpers into the correct holes. So, pro tip: study the anatomy of your breadboard before testing.l
Product KIT-11606 |
about 5 months ago
This was a fun kit. It went together quickly with no major issues, even though the order of assembly is a little different from what I’m used to . Usually I’ve soldered in resistors,caps,sockets,switches,rheostats, battery. The kit instructions go capacitors,sockets,switches,rheostats, resistors, batteries. Inserting the Arduino is tricky, since her socket is closely surrounded by other components. I sure wish if it had an IR LED that would talk to the Nebulophone. ( http://bleeplabs.com/nebulophone/ ).
Product KIT-11394 |
about 7 months ago
Hey! The BNC->BNC cable is the right answer for my oscilloscope. You can also use the BNC->alligator clips connector to hook this thing directly to a little speaker. I’m using a 2" transistor radio speaker much like Sparkfun’s COM-09151. Actually hearing the signal made it easier to figure out how sweep and other features worked, and it’s way cheaper than an O-scope too!
Just assembled this kit yesterday. The doc is spartan but clear, and I had no serious trouble with it. You should be able to handle a soldering iron with facility before attempting this kit though. I count about 200 solder joins you’ll need to make on the board, although they’re almost all through-hole or to pins. Setting up the output jack is marginally tricky, since you need to solder bits of hook-up wire to it in order to reach the main board from the front panel. Be careful to solder the button switches onto the board straight and flat – use blu-tack or bend the pins outward to get them to lock in the holes to ensure this. The front panel has to fit closely over the plastic buttons, and if they’re crooked you’ll have a Terrible time getting it go together at the end. If you catch one that’s crooked, you can re-heat the pins on one side and press it flat though. The display panel has mounting holes which correspond to holes in the main board, but no display mounting hardware is included in the kit. The display sits on stand-offs which bear on the main board and is stable once you solder its 18 I/O pins in.
The kit I ordered July 16 2013 did come with the latest & greatest firmware installed per the JYE website, so I’m happy about that. Alas, the only output connector that comes with it is a BNC connector with a pair of alligator clips attached. If you wish to hook it up directly to your oscilloscope, you may need to get a BNC-to-BNC connector cable somewheres. I couldn’t make it work with my oscilloscope probe, probably because I am unclear on how that works. I was able to verify that the machine was generating a signal by pressing the output A-clips into the BNC connector on my O-scope, but I’ll need another cable to really delve through the functions.
Tutorial - Beginning Embedded Electronics - 6 |
about 3 years ago
D'OH! I have learned much from this kit. 1) Shorting the tx and rx leads together while plugged in to your computer’s serial port is NOT an adequate test. Without power and ground on the 4-wire side, the board will just sit there and you’ll see no loopback echo on your communication program. Read the test instructions carefully! 2) It’s normal and correct that the vcc on the 4-wire side of the card will be 5 or so volts negative relative to the ground wire. After I double-checked all my components and triple-checked my soldering with a magnifying glass, I plugged my card into the device I needed to talk to and found that it worked perfectly well.
The LEDs in my level shifter kit are the bead kind, not the flat-side case kind. From the web it looks like the flat side is usually on the negative (short-lead) side of the LED.
No public wish lists :(