AHiggins

Member Since: February 22, 2011

Country: United States

Profile

Programming Languages

Java, C, FORTRAN, Processing, Assembly, Basic, Verilog

Universities

University of California, San Diego

Expertise

Hardware over software, mechanical

  • There are no mounting holes, so there are few ways to mount it in an enclosure in a professional looking way.

  • yes

  • several amps, NiMH have very low ESR

  • no need to double post this demanding comment

  • Push Solenoid: Apply voltage to make it push
    Pull Solenoid: Apply voltage to make it pull
    This is a push type. Pull types generally do not have a spring.
    Yes you could reverse it, but this is not it’s intended use. The thick side of the plunger is the butt.

  • I got this LCD working, and it looks lovely. Here are my recommendations:
    (1) Don’t buy this unless you don’t mind a very slow display. Any kind of text animations or quick updates aren’t going to work. Each statement you send needs to be followed by around 100ms delay.
    (2) If you do buy it, use http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/SfLCD2 as suggested by Member207599 and add a delay(1000) to the first line of setup, so that your Arduino can finish booting up before the display, avoiding some frustrating errors others have experienced above.
    (3) Set screen brightness to 10% - plenty bright and more reliable
    If you need a faster display, use a regular parallel interface. If you need more pins buy an arduino mega. If your spending all the, spend the money.

  • Why not just buy it in a DIP package?

  • Excessive soldering heat?

  • These are pretty economical sockets. If you have to desolder one, it will be trash afterwords. But they serve their function.

  • Push harder. Atmel328 fits just fine, but it is a tight fit. You’re not going to get the chip out without chip pullers… You won’t want to pull the chip out of the socket unless you have to replace it (not just to reprogram it).

No public wish lists :(