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Member Since: June 20, 2007

Country: United States

  • Not that it really matters, but mine didn’t come with any silicon bumpers. Also the “alligator clip covers” are just heat shrink tubing – nothing wrong with that, but it’s slightly misleading. I would personally go with slightly shorter flex arms. You can shorten them yourself though, which is nice. As some people have noted it’s really hard to get the nozzle off. I ended up removing the nozzle and a few joints and threading the screw from there. I’d suggest some thread locker or other adhesive on the inside of the nozzle since the screws and alligator clips rotate easily in the nozzle.

  • I strongly discourage purchasing this product. I used one for the past 9 months on my mac to program a variety of custom arduino based boards. It was a constant source of frustration with myriad bugs/annoyances. Just one example – you cannot plug the thing in and expect it to work correctly if you use a virtual machine (e.g. vmware fusion) and it’s open. Another real annoyance is the 5V power. All my boards were 3.3V. Yes it’s hackable – I cut a trace and added a 3.3V LDO to the board. The biggest problem with this tool though is that it’s simply unreliable. I’d program my target several times without issue and then out of no where it would stop working. I’d have to restart my machine/unplug replug a few times. I could never be sure if my board was at fault or if the programmer was at fault (always annoying and frankly often it was the programmer). The documentation is terrible – I couldn’t, for example, figure out what the two status LEDs on board actually mean. Finally one day the thing just stopped working all together. No idea why. Won’t program an off the shelf arduino board or mine. I bought the Atmel AVRISP mkII and I highly recommend it over this product. Yes it’s 2x the cost, but it’s worth it. No screwing around with hacking the programmer, it’s MUCH faster, and it’s much more reliable. Haven’t had to spend anytime debugging my programmer instead of my board. Long story short it’s worth the $39 for the atmel hardware.

  • After playing with this for the past few days I’m frustrated. I want to love this product, but the software is super buggy (at least on the mac). Lots of crashes and lots of just annoying behavior. E.g. channels swapping data (so first you run in and channel 0’s data is on channel 0. Then it crashes and channel 0’s data is on channel 2). The guys at the company seem awesome and actually answer their phone(!!!). They tried to help out with a beta release. That release fixed one of my problems, but is super unstable (it’s a beta) and crashes all the time. UGH….I want to love it, but they’re making it difficult to do so….

  • Just bought this and it’s great. Highly recommended for debugging. The interface (on OSX anyway) is a little “toy” like and is missing some features I’d like, but for the money it’s hard to beat. Great for debugging serial protocols etc. Debugging high speed stuff with this is a little tricky (2 ch at 100 MHz is the max it can do) so probably not great for fpga stuff, but it’s workable. Definitely a recommended tool for the quiver.

  • BTW in case anyone is curious it’s trivial to remove the lens from this camera. A pair of tweezers wedged between the lens and the camera will pop it right off. It’s only secured with 4 dots of glue. Handy if you want to use your own lens.

  • BTW in case anyone is curious it’s trivial to remove the lens from this camera. A pair of tweezers wedged between the lens and the camera will pop it right off. It’s only secured with 4 dots of glue. Handy if you want to use your own lens.

  • I just bought this scope. It’s pretty terrible. There are TONS of software bugs on the scope. For example it doesn’t always switch the trigger source (ch1 to ch2) even though the GUI says it does. If you use run/stop and try to use tracking cursors it’ll only track on the settings used to capture that screen. This means that you can’t run stop -> zoom in/out -> use tracking cursors. That’s pretty bad…the cursors track as though the original wave form were in front of you. I have to restart this scope (power on/off) every ~30 mins because at some point I just have no idea if the settings that I expect are the settings that are being used for measurement. There have been several glitches wherein the timebase just doesn’t update even though I rotate the horizontal knob. This means that the units update, but the waveform doesn’t “zoom in”. All in all there is a ton to be desired in this scope. It’s really frustrating not knowing if your debug equipment is broken or if your design isn’t performing as expected. It’s cute, it does a few things OK, but in my mind this is really more of a glorified multimeter with bad software. I think in retrospect I’d buy a used tek scope on ebay for the same price. Sure you wouldn’t have a color LCD and a usb drive, but at least it would be accurate.

  • It would be nice if you guys added a cap on at least the push button that’s pulled high so that it’s debounced. Additionally a tristate buffer with enable pulled low on the tx line of the bluesmirf would be nice so that you can actually program the arduino with the bluesmirf attached.

  • So to clarify - this is not actually a vacuum pump, correct? It’s just a regular air pump? Also where is the 16"Hg coming from? On the data sheet I see -70 kPa, which is -20.67"Hg. I’m assuming that given the 250 kPa upper range this actually a positive displacement pump that’s hooked up in reverse to create vacuum?

  • I don’t think 1 ml is particularly accurate. Especially if the low end of the sensor is really 800ml/min. For 1/10th the cost you can get something 2.5 ml accuracy. http://www.adafruit.com/products/828

No public wish lists :(