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March 19, 2011
about 3 years ago
Are the EAGLE files posted here before or after the “green wire” fix was corrected?
I see from browsing the firmware source for this shield that some changes have been made. I really need a shield that can (1) act as an access point and (2) accept a hard coded IP address. Can this do that yet?
Did you ever take a shot at this? I am thinking of writing some custom firmware for it as well.
Absolutely not! Arduino sketches do not run directly on to this shield. The firmware for the shield can be updated but it is not written with the Arduino environment.
about 4 years ago
This is an extremely nice GPS receiver! Its very sensitive. I have a to story home. It didn’t get much of anything int he basement but on the first floor its getting 8 birds with good SNR. When it has that many birds with good signal, VisualGPS reports error < 1 foot in all directions for several minutes. Can’t wait to try it outside (its a little chilly tonight).
So far the only downside is the lack of a comprehensive command reference. There is a PDF with a bunch of commands but it is missing some important ones. like how to change the baud rate. It does tell you how to turn certain NMEA 0183 sentences on and off though. By googling around I think all the commands are available.
Perhaps before the sailing season is over here int he Northeast I’ll get this on my boat. I probably have about 1 week left!
about 4 years ago
This paste spreads okay and reflows well enough in my toaster oven. I get solder bridges on chips with pins that are close (not technically “fine pitch” parts but close) and I have to wick them up. That’s probably a stencil design issue.
But, this paste makes a mess. It is not water soluble and cleaning it off a Kapton stencil is very, very difficult. Lots of very hot water and water pressure does not do it. Even scraping the paste off with a squeegee does not do it. Bits of dried paste get stuck in the stencil apertures and on the surface of the stencil, and its very hard and time consuming to get it out.
I’ll be using Kestor Easy 256 for the rest of my projects. Yes this stuff is cheaper if you only need a little bit, but its not worth the hassle.
about 5 years ago
Okay, I have the paste and the stencil is on the way…
Where can I get one of those nifty frames the guy in the tutorial has? I need one for an 100mm by 80mm board…
Thanks! I spent a day playing with an oven and the SPE controller. Can’t wait to put an actual board through.
about 5 years ago
Okay, the controller is in, built and tested!
First off, it worked fine with the supplied wall wart and the 10K resistor. I didn’t change a thing. The relay tripped reliably.
It was easy to build, but more detailed pics would have been a help. I’m fine with no instructions, I can figure out what goes where, but posting some higher resolution pics of the top so we can clearly see what goes where would be a help.
I don’t have a PIC programmer, so a friend of mine came over with his and we burned the latest HEX file in. We used the one that was “fixed.” This file allowed me to edit all the steps of profile 1, but none of the steps of profile 2. Every step in profile 2 is set to step number 0 and I could not change that. So I could program in one step in the entire profile.
On to the oven. I bought a $60 1,500 watt convection oven with four heating elements. It was way, way too slow. It could not heat nearly fast enough to keep up with the profile. It was a little on the big side, but the smallest one I could find with a fan.
I tried my wife’s smaller 1,200 watt oven that had no fan. Much better. It still did not keep up perfectly, at one point it is 10 to 12 deg C behind. I think by lengthing the pre-heat phase I can fix that. Once it got warm it did track better until right up to about 205 deg C, then got slow again.
Still, I was able to reflow a board nicely.
I think I might hack apart two ovens to make one super oven. As long as it does not pop a 20A breaker, all good!
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