×

Please see all COVID-19 updates here as some shipments may be delayed due to CDC safety and staffing guidelines. If you have an order or shipping question please refer to our Customer Support page. For technical questions please check out our Forums. Thank you for your continued support.

A. Babb

Member Since: March 26, 2011

Country: United States

Profile

Programming Languages

HCS/9S12 assembly, VHDL, C, C++

Universities

Texas A&M University Kingsville

Expertise

EEEN Student

Interests

Robotics, electronics, embedded systems

  • Found this cool widget (I think that's what its called):
    http://www.dinceraydin.com/djlcdsim/djlcdsim.html
    It's an LCD simulator! Can be handy if you don't have the real thing to play with... or forgot to get new batteries >.

  • Yes, it's used exactly like a compass.
    Be warned though, these are sensitive to radio transmissions from stuff like the Xbee, WiFi, and your cellphone.

  • Does anyone else find this voltage combination a bit... fishy?
    I can understand designing a board that can run off of both 3.3V and 5V logic, where the supply voltage range is 3.0 to 7.0V and the I/O can accept the same range.
    I don't know, for some reason I keep thinking that if your I/O voltages are higher than your supply voltage you'll end up with a current backflow through the supply pins.

  • Out of curiosity, what is the reccomended samping rate for this board?
    From looking at the schematic (and referring to the supplied datasheets), I see that the Gyro's have a -3dB LPF at around 48Hz and the Accelerometers have a -3dB LPF at 50Hz.
    I'm currently running the ADC at a rate of 110Hz, and I'm worried that I might be sapping some performance and/or introducing noise...

  • It's one of several different coordinate schemes:
    This board has the X and Y angle set up so that a positive X angle tilt will result in a positive linear acceleration (and displacement) along the X axis, and a positive Y angle tilt will result in a positive acceration along the Y axis.
    It seems like this was more intended for quadrotors and helicopters than for airplanes and other craft.

  • Have you tried using a file or serrated knife to first score along where you want to break it? An old butterknife might do the trick.
    Once you've scored it, use a pair of pliers to quickly twist the wanted pins off the row.
    *Note: I haven't tried this technique on plastic, but it works well with copper-clad board