A. Babb

Member Since: March 26, 2011

Country: United States

Profile

Programming Languages

HCS/9S12 assembly, VHDL, C, C++

Universities

Texas A&M University Kingsville

Expertise

EEEN Student

Interests

Robotics, electronics, embedded systems

  • Product LCD-00791 | about 3 years ago

    Found this cool widget (I think that’s what its called):
    http://www.dinceraydin.com/djlcdsim/djlcdsim.html
    It’s an LCD simulator! Can be handy if you don’t have the real thing to play with… or forgot to get new batteries >.

  • Product SEN-10619 | about 3 years ago

    Yes, it’s used exactly like a compass.
    Be warned though, these are sensitive to radio transmissions from stuff like the Xbee, WiFi, and your cellphone.

  • Product LCD-09054 | about 3 years ago

    Does anyone else find this voltage combination a bit… fishy?
    I can understand designing a board that can run off of both 3.3V and 5V logic, where the supply voltage range is 3.0 to 7.0V and the I/O can accept the same range.
    I don’t know, for some reason I keep thinking that if your I/O voltages are higher than your supply voltage you’ll end up with a current backflow through the supply pins.

  • Product SEN-10010 | about 3 years ago

    Out of curiosity, what is the reccomended samping rate for this board?
    From looking at the schematic (and referring to the supplied datasheets), I see that the Gyro’s have a -3dB LPF at around 48Hz and the Accelerometers have a -3dB LPF at 50Hz.
    I’m currently running the ADC at a rate of 110Hz, and I’m worried that I might be sapping some performance and/or introducing noise…

  • Product SEN-10010 | about 3 years ago

    It’s one of several different coordinate schemes:
    This board has the X and Y angle set up so that a positive X angle tilt will result in a positive linear acceleration (and displacement) along the X axis, and a positive Y angle tilt will result in a positive acceration along the Y axis.
    It seems like this was more intended for quadrotors and helicopters than for airplanes and other craft.

  • Product PRT-00117 | about 3 years ago

    Have you tried using a file or serrated knife to first score along where you want to break it? An old butterknife might do the trick.
    Once you’ve scored it, use a pair of pliers to quickly twist the wanted pins off the row.
    *Note: I haven’t tried this technique on plastic, but it works well with copper-clad board

Name Pieces Total
Test List
54 43.55