darco

Member Since: July 11, 2007

Country: United States

  • Product DEV-09734 | about 3 years ago

    Oh heck, if any of you guys at SparkFun are listening, here’s my wish-list for a hypothetical future revision of this board:
    1) Drop the regulator, or make it an optional DIY addition.
    2) Make all of the break out pins on the top and bottom aligned to a 0.1" grid.
    3) Add a JTAG port in addition to the ISP port. Feel free to use a 0.05" pitch connector for the JTAG port is space is tight.
    4) Add a U.FL connector (or at least the landing pattern for it) to the board, so that I can solder off the chip antenna and add a Real antenna without too much headache.
    The result would be a more affordable and more desirable product. I’d by another one. Or two.

  • Product DEV-09734 | about 3 years ago

    @JeffC: No, this is an 802.15.4 chip—you can’t do 802.11 with it at all. But if what you are trying to do is use IP for networking your wireless sensor network, then you could use 6LoWPAN. Check out http://www.sics.se/contiki/
    @societyofrobots: I used a right-angle header for the ISP socket on mine. I can use it with everything connected on the top. I agree though that this board layout seems…unfortunate at best.

  • Product PRT-08535 | about 4 years ago

    I would love to see a 2x3 variant of this cable.

  • Product DEV-08778 | about 4 years ago

    No, this will not work with the iPad.
    But… The iPad has a built-in microphone. You shouldn’t need this device anyway.

  • Product DEV-09734 | about 4 years ago

    I hated QFN packages as well until I came up with the right technique. Now I actually prefer QFN packages—much faster to solder.
    My technique is this: Pre-tin the pads on the board you are going to solder the chip to, and do the same to the pads on the chip itself. Apply lots of flux to prevent bridging. Then carefully place the chip onto the pads and use a hot-air gun (cheaply available at Home Depot) to attach the chip to the board. You know it’s done a few seconds after the chip “wiggles” as the solder melts.
    Some practice is necessary to get it perfect, but once you do it is worth it.
    Just be careful not to overheat.

  • Product DEV-09734 | about 4 years ago

    I had been looking for a way to get my hands on this chip. Very hard to source in single quantities. Looking forward to playing with it.
    But really though… I could have done without the regulator. A BoB with just the ATMega128RFA1, chip antenna, crystals, and passive components would have been plenty—and it would have been more flexible, IMHO.
    Perhaps for the next rev, also include the traces for other antenna options?

  • Product COM-00746 | about 4 years ago

    Based on my experience, these caps tend to self-discharge over a period of time. I’m not entirely certain what the self-discharge rate is, though…

  • Product COM-09831 | about 4 years ago

    Hard to imagine that these sold out already. I’m guessing they were pulled while the legalities of selling them are investigated.
    That being said, there is a market for “fake” parts like this; specifically for creating non-functional prototypes for mechanical testing or for educational purposes.
    I think there is no problem selling them as long as you get a red paint marker and draw an “X” on each one before you ship it. Sanding them is way too much trouble.

  • Product DD-09621 | about 4 years ago

    I would love to see the inside of one of these. Perhaps also get the physical dimensions of the circuit board inside…?

  • Product COM-00697 | about 5 years ago

    The green and blue channels are at least an order of magnitude brighter than the red. In order to do any sort of reasonable color mixing that includes red, I have to cut back the power on the blue and green significantly.
    Very frustrating. Very disappointing.

No public wish lists :(