Member Since: May 4, 2011

Country: United States

  • Product TOL-09141 | last week

    Hah! This is why flukes, etc., have a separate connector for current measurement - to save fuses.

    (And Fluke fuses cost $10 each so doing it wrong can be very expensive…)

  • Product TOL-09141 | last week

    I am IMPRESSED by this meter for $15 bucks. I even took it apart after watching the eevblog video on why to avoid cheap multimeters and it holds up well (good input protection, etc.). It also has quite a fast continuity beeper, etc. The only test it really fails is the “can you turn the dial with one hand when it’s on a table” test.

    The only big ‘fail’ is that it’s not autoranging.

    It will be a shame if it’s discontinued.

    PS: I won’t be connecting my “more expensive” meter to mains voltages ever again after watching his video. I took that one apart, too - it’s scary inside!

  • Product COM-00212 | about 2 years ago

    Yes…but it’s much better to get yourself a $15 ISP programmer to use with these bare chips. Something like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9825

    In the Arduino IDE the only difference you’ll notice is you select an option from the “Tools->Programmer” menu instead of a COM port. You get more features than COM though, eg. You can set ‘fuse’ settings on the chips (to select clock sources, etc. (which you’ll need to do with this chip unless you want it locked at 1mHz)

    You also don’t lose a couple of K of flash memory to the bootloader - very important when you only have 2K of program space!

  • Product COM-11232 | about 2 years ago

    (Will work bare … although most people recommend adding a decoupling capacitor and an extra pullup resistor on the RESET pin)

  • Product COM-11232 | about 2 years ago

    Love them…easy to fit in small spaces and they run at 8mHz with no external components whatsover. None. Zero. Zip. The chip and a power supply, that’s all you need.

    The Tiny85 is a bit too limited. These are just right.

  • Product COM-00683 | about 2 years ago

    All controllers can do PWM, you just have to turn them on and off quickly in software.

  • Product DEV-11303 | about 2 years ago

    Yes, all Arduinos have PWM outputs.

  • Product DEV-11303 | about 2 years ago

    The Mini has voltage regulators and stuff built into it (the Pro doesn’t). The Mini would be much easier to run off batteries (for example).

    It also has the header pins built in so it’s much easier to stick it into a breadboard (or attach it to some perfboard).

    Is it worth the extra money? That’s up to you…

  • Product COM-10982 | about 2 years ago

    Gray code only repeats once around the shaft. You can tell exactly where the shaft is at any time.

    Quadrature code usually repeats around the shaft. You can see the shaft turning but you don’t know the absolute position.

  • Product TOL-09141 | about 2 years ago

    Nice little meter. Feels good in the hands. One niggle: Is it just me or is the fuse too sensitive? I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong but I never seem to have a working fuse for measuring current. My other meters don’t do it and reading all the other posts about fuse replacement makes me wonder…

No public wish lists :(