Due to the impacts of the coronavirus outbreak, we are experiencing longer than normal lead times on certain products. We encourage back-ordering out-of-stock items to receive them as soon as possible.



Member Since: July 20, 2011

Country: United States

  • I have been eagerly watching Paul's development of this board! I have a couple of projects that will use this as the need the memory and speed. Also there is TensorFlow lite available for this from NXP. When I saw the release yesterday I immediately ordered four. I hope to do a local pickup this morning at 9AM. Can't wait!

  • I have posted Instructions with picture on my Site: Firestone Robot Foundry

  • I agree. I am preparing some picture sof what I did along with instructions.Will post later today.

  • It may be possible to use conductive paint to fix the broken pin. ????

    Do the following at your own risk. You can make the board unusable!!!!!!!!! I am not responsible for damage to your board.!!!!! A very fine tip on your soldering iron is required. In retrospect I should have used my hot-air rework station.

    I just did some VERY delicate surgery on pin 6. Pin 6 is connected to VDD on a trace that runs from pin 1, under the chip to Pin 6 and then to to the switch. due to the trace under the chip you must lift pin 6. This is very delicate , pin 6 is fragile!!!!!!!!!!!! Using a verrry fine tip on my Hakko I was able to lift pin 6 from the board. I then connected pin 6 with some wire wrap wire to a the center pin of a 3 pin header. On pin of the header goes to VDD and the other goes to ground. That way I can use a shorting plug to switch modes. When connected to GND, one shot mode works great!!!!

    On my second attempt on another board I managed to break off pin 6. When pin 6 is not connected operation is undetermined.
    However when looking at the chip, I noticed that I could see the broken end of pin 6's lead frame in the hole. (Part of the chip package broke off).
    I inserted a piece of fine wire to touch the end of the exposed lead frame. I then used Supper Glue to hold the wire to the lead frame. There was no where to solder it. After this it worked OK.
    I got Lucky

  • Nick, I saw and downloaded the library. Thanks for the help. I just added the code to my GPS-OBD-II Car Computer using a Teensy 3.5. I just placed my order and will do local pickup on Monday, The only thing I don't like is that the direction only goes up to 188. There are 360 degrees in a circle. I will display the current heading as degrees/10. My project displays the speed limit from Wikispeedia. I downloaded the whole thing last month and converted to to CSV and then binary. I built indexes for each 100 mile square as SQL does not run on a Teensy. I have the files on a SD card. When I am over the speed limit I will turn on the radar gun and how far over will be the level. I also will display the trip distance in Destination distance and the Distance to empty in the turn distance.mpg. I also will add some special characters to the 7-segment numbers. I need to look that up and I will add it to the library. Some are T (reversed 7), A, F, E, d, p, U, u, o, S, and some others. For I and O I will use 0 and 1.

    This will be a great project to add on to my current car computer.

    JohnK (EvilMinion)

  • The links for the libraries and git-hub return 404. I have it in my shopping cart and will buy as soon as the docs appear. I can't seem to find anything on the web for the LD7138. I am driving to Yellowstone on Thursday and could use this with my existing GPS and OBD-II code on a Teensy 3.x

  • Your description needed to be updated. A SPST has no NC contact. This relay will only make a connection when the coil is energized.

  • The cases are nice. But how about this problem:

    In my home weather station (indoor unit), I am using a Mega as the 5" TFT touch panel shield need this. I also am using a Adafruit CC3000 WiFi board (UNO form factor) as well as a Mega type Protoshield that holds my Nordic link to the outdoor portion and a DS1307 and a DHT22. The TFT shield and panel MUST be at the top of the stack. The problem is that the CC3000 board is in the UNO form factor. There is no extension of the added Mega pins. I tried using just stackable header connectors (freestanding) but that was unsatisfactory. I finally modified a Mega to have stackable headers in the UNO area and placed the CC3000 under the Mega board. Does anyone make a mega board with stackable headers (Or for that matter a UNO)?

    My Stack: 1. TFT Touch Panel 2. TFT/Touch Shield (mega) 3. Mega Proto Shield 4. Arduino Mega modified with stackable headers in UNO area 5. Adafruit CC3000 WiFi shield (UNO size)

    BTW: I live in Firestone , CO (however I work in Hillsboro,OR) and have the Ambient weather Solar Shield at my house. It is not really UV resistant and will eventually get brittle and break. I am on my second one in 4 years and I still had to repair it this summer.

    Regards John

  • OK you have the sockets for Vernier. Now when/where can we get the plugs and/or cables? I am in Hillsboro, OR so I may just go down the street to Vernier :-)