tim7

Member Since: August 21, 2011

Country: United States

  • With the regulator and LED disconnected the only component drawing power is the ATmega328. The datasheet claims it draws less than 1uA in the power-save and power-down modes, though my multimeter can’t accurately measure such a tiny current. With the CPU running you can save power by setting the fuse bit CKDIV8 which reduces the clock speed. But usually it is better to leave the clock at full speed, which allows you carry out your task more quickly and spend less time outside the power-saving mode.

    With the regulator and power LED connected I see a minimum current draw of 1mA (that’s with the ATmega328 in it’s power-down mode, drawing about 0.1uA).

    BTW I just noticed that the pictures and schematics above have been updated to show the new design.

  • I just received my Arduino Day order, and noticed that you’ve made exactly this modification (except that the 10uF smoothing capacitor is retained when the regulator is disconnected).

    So, thanks Sparkfun! You’re great.

  • This fantastic. In fact the Microview is so sleek and compact that it’s almost a pity to attach anything to it. Even a minimal PCB and battery is going to make it a lot bigger and uglier.

    What I’d love to see is is an all-in-one Microview II with built-in battery, perhaps a couple of buttons, and no external pins (perhaps the case could be made so that the pins were easily accessible if needed, say by drilling a hole or two).

  • Here’s a roughly to-scale comparison. IMHO we’re in similar territory to the “rounded corners” battle that’s been raging so destructively in the world of mobile phones & tablets.

  • Fluke did not have to trademark the colour yellow. Common sense says they shouldn’t have been able to, but common sense also says they shouldn’t have tried.

    I used to hold Fluke in high esteem. I have dozens of their instruments at work, and was happy to pay a little extra just because I liked their stuff. But I’m not happy with Fluke’s trademark policy. These days there are plenty of high quality alternatives, and henceforth I’ll be researching non-yellow meters for my needs.

  • I think the schematic is wired correctly, but labelled wrongly: PB0(SS) is Arduino pin D17, and PB3(MISO) is Arduino pin D14. The PCB is correct.

  • Neat. Thanks,

  • Is the ISP header used to program external devices, or to load code from an external programmer onto the ATTINY84 on the PCB? Or both?

  • The reg pulls about 0.7mA. Otherwise I’d have just cut the LED, for the reasons you list. The cut can be undone by connecting the two Vcc pins together.

  • Even after the soldering course, T. Rex struggled with surface-mount devices.

No public wish lists :(