laserhawk64

Member Since: September 23, 2011

Country: United States

  • Product page link errors out… looks like it got up and moved.

    Looks like a useful bracket tho. I might have to get some of those.

  • Wow, that’s some fine-pitch soldering.

    I have a specific job I’m trying to ignore right now because of just how fine-pitch it is. I have a USB floppy controller stolen off an external drive that I’m converting to 5.25" floppy duty (yes, I am a retrotech nerd lol)… which involves replacing the original 26-pin FFC with what amounts to basically a wiring harness. The pads on the controller PCB are about the same thickness as the wire, sans insulation, in the floppy ribbon cable – oh my – and every next connection I try to put down tends to lift up the previous three. (Frustrating as [very long loud beep]!) I’ve a well-used and thoroughly abused genuine Hakko 926… TBH I also have one of the old Sparkfun Soldering Stations (one of the ones made by ATTEN and rebranded by you guys) but it needs yet another wand replacement, the LED goes kind of hyper nutsy cuckoo after about fifteen, twenty minutes. (FWIW, I didn’t have the Hakko yet, when I last worked on this thing.)

    If someone has tips on how not to have Infuriating Things happen when I do each joint, I’d be thrilled. I’d love to finish that project…

  • …I hear crickets…

    ;)

  • Thinking of getting this for a friend for Christmas (he loves games). I have limited funding (it’s a long, sad story) but I do have a 1st-generation Pi Model B… will this kit work with it, or is that a bad idea (or both)…?

  • Would be good to specify up above (ahem) which Pis this works with. I have an original Model B, for instance, and I cannot tell right now if it’s compatible.

  • Just a point of amusement. I have a sound module out of a greeting card and it uses this exact speaker. Made me chuckle a little.

  • Remember Occam! Sometimes there really are applications where a simple non-programmable fixed-frequency oscillator is all you need. 555s don’t get out of tune too easily ;) and overkill necessarily implies wasted capacity of some sort, often significant. Using an Arduino Pro Mini in place of a 555 seems to me the equivalent of using a tactical nuke to take out a mouse nest – and it goes up to two or three nukes, in the case of the pot-and-transistor approach.

    On top of the overkill issue – the idea of just throwing an Arduino at any given electronics problem is a massive trope that’s speeding its way towards cliche. There’s ample criticism of that approach to begin with (I remember it from when I was still browsing Hackaday, and that ended a year or so ago!) and we don’t need to add to it.

    I’d be extremely interested to hear, in the scenario put forth at the start of the article (and then never touched again) why the pot-and-FET approach would not work or would be insufficient – or would even be proposed as bad design or engineering practice. Aside from the fact that IRF510s (the easily available FET that first comes to my mind) start getting out of bed at about ten volts, necessitating a 12v supply all ‘round, I don’t see a big problem there. (That may be me, though… I don’t work with motors often enough.)

  • You get aaaaaaaaallll the fun stuff…

    ;)

    Great movie!

  • This is an ATTEN AT937b iron. It uses the 7pin female version of the Hakko 907 wand. (eBay calls the wand a “handle”, by the way, if you’re looking for a replacement.)

    ATTEN is the only company which uses the 7pin style wand, as far as I can tell. All the other clones use the original Hakko connector, which is a male 5pin DIN on the wand, not a female 7pin DIN. Pinout of the Hakko 5pin connector is –

    1&2 sensor 3&tip ESD 4&5 heater

    This pinout is widely known, and there are many diagrams available on eg Google Images to show for it. However, I can find no such diagrams for the ATTEN 7pin version. Since I have this iron, I made my own :D multimeters are handy. The ATTEN 907 handle is basically the same inside as a Hakko 936 wand; it only has two extra pins on its connector which are unused – unconnected. Here is the pinout –

    1&3 heater 2&4 unconnected 5&6 sensor 7&tip ESD (7 = center pin)

    Even the resistance measurements are the same as in the Hakko 937 manual – approx. 2-3 ohms for heater, approx. 50 ohms for sensor, almost no resistance for ESD. The ATTEN 907 handle is a 936 handle with a different connector. It is electrically no different.

    If you are looking for a replacement controller, as I am (this iron, at least in my presence, chews through wands/handles a bit fast –I’m on my third– and is having some temperature control issues, and is well out of warranty to boot) – the eBay controllers with the title “Soldering Iron Station Temperature Controller For HAKKO 936 T12 T1 T13 Handle” will work fine. You will of course have to wire up your own connector, but you have to do that anyways. They’re about us$20 from China or Hong Kong. Wire up eg an old Dell power brick (the Dell PA-6 series is perfect for this, ~70w output at 20VDC) and you’ve got yourself a dandy new iron!

  • Yuck, old 2g and far, far too expensive. Make it 3g (preferably AT&T compatible, Verizon is horrible around here and Sprint is even worse) and drop the price a little below half and at that point you’ve got some serious potential. Heck, at $25 for a 3g AT&T compat board, reserve one for me and let me know when they’re in stock. I will buy one with that price and featureset. (Might take me a bit to scrape the dough together, though, I’m on a budget. Hey, I’m honest about it, at least!)

    Right now, though? Sorry, no offense meant but I’d go to eBay first.

No public wish lists :(