Member Since: October 7, 2011

Country: United States

  • What you're looking for is an N-Channel Logic Level Power Mosfet.

    Connect it between your LED and ground, and send logic level high to the gate and voila, your led turns on.

    Keep in mind though, that LED's require a constant current power source, so if your LED(s) didn't come with a driver, you'll need a way to limit current else they'll burn themselves out.

  • I concur. It's too slow to fill a full sized glass. Heck it was slow to even fill the shot glasses in the demo video.

    Better solutions? Gravity + stainless solenoid valve. (non-pilot else it won't work since they have a minimum pressure requirement and it can't be brass because those usually contain trace amounts of lead, which is way too dangerous to risk) Or.... use the sparkfun vaccuum pump (which can also pump pressure) to pump pressure into the top of the bottles to pressurize and force the liquid out through a second tube that goes down to the bottom of the bottle. Peristaltic pumps are too noisy and slow for an efficient bar-bot. Definitely the easiest method, but not the most elegant, slick, or quiet.

  • More generic term would be turboshaft.

    But anyways, is the 12k rpm at optimal speed? I'm guessing idle is lower?

    If idle is low enough, you can just mate it to a modern automatic car transmission. (modern ones often can handle up to 1000hp stock, like the one that comes in a 2011+ mustang GT automatic)

    It depends on how slow the output shaft spins at its lowest possible idle, but you might be able to use the stock torque converter. If it idles too high (1500rpm or higher), you could just replace the stock torque converter with a drag racing torque converter with a higher stall RPM rating. Drag cars often have huge cams with really good top end power, while sacrificing power in the low end. (which is what makes them idle so roughly) To avoid a rocky start in the low RPM's where the motor doesn't run well, they run torque converters that don't start transferring power until a higher RPM, like 2500 RPM's, for example. Something like that could potentially work well in your case. 12k rpm at the top end shouldn't be a problem at all. You'd just want a shorter final output. 4.60 gearing in the rear end would probably be optimal for a top RPM of 12k.

    What comes to mind? BATMOBILE. Nuff said. Make it happen guys. If you mounted it at the rear of the car, you could even use a fuel pump to dump fuel into the exhaust section with an ignitor for an "afterburner". It would be for looks over function, obviously.

    But you know what? This is sparkfun. Home of ELECTRONICS. Going mechanical would make sense for this engine, but I think hybrid drive would be cooler. Like how diesel trains work. Huge diesel motors that drive generators that then power torquey electric motors that power the wheels. They're VERY efficient. I imagine a gas turbine is probably nearly as efficient, if not more efficient, at its peak. Have it power a generator/alternator, then charge a battery bank an/or power an electric motor to drive the wheel(s).

    Possibilities are endless. Gas turbines are exciting. I have no use for one but I want one. Something fierce.

  • Thanks! The wife basically said there's no way I can put it in the office unless I make it look like it was store bought, so that's the best I could do. Cheap matte black paint from walmart. I really didn't sand or prep any of the surfaces, but since it's black, it hides my poor woodworking skills.

    Now if I could only get it to stop wobbling... (let me know if you find a good wobble fix for yours, I'm still pondering a fix for mine)

  • I don't mind at all. Just keep in mind that it's very wobbly, so you'd want to add some support bracing to make it more stable if you build it to spec.

    Keep in mind I'm new to 3d design using CAD software, I'm just old enough that I had MANUAL drafting class on paper, so this is new to me. I made the first sketch as one giant manifold. It was a nightmare to adjust or rearrange. I basically had to start over and remake it to where each piece of wood on the project is its own "component", and grouped the components up into groups. This still might not be the correct way of designing but it's better than my first go-around. (I can post that if you need a good laugh)

  • Awesome! I did this EXACT thing recently. I sketched it up in sketchup maker edition, then got to cutting. I went a little overboard, but I like the end result. it's not 100% done, but the majority of it is.

    recent picture with workbench covered in RC stuff (was building new short course truck for racing)

    Pic 1

    the design in sketchup. far left section not done yet, so my replicator 2 is sitting on the floor :(

    Pic 2

    somewhat assembled and not painted. (by the way, it's easier to paint BEFORE assembly, I came to find out)

    Pic 3


    Pic 4

    picture of it with a somewhat clean work surface (which is rare)

    Pic 5

    I have more pictures, including the PWM fans I put in the instrument rack for heat exhaust, the power strip I mounted back there, and other detailed pictures. My main reason for the corner design: HUGE desk space, and no legs in the front to bang my legs into. it does make for a slightly wobbly design, so I plan on adding diagonal braces and more bracing along the floor between the legs, but for now, it works fine.

  • Hey now, I'm an Oracle DBA and I'm not weird. (or am I?)

  • Robert said, "Let there be light!"

  • un mas

  • "Dino DNA!"

No public wish lists :(